The Green View

Fall Seeding Steps

When seeding during the fall make sure you leave enough time for the grass seed to fully germinate before the freezing temperatures arrive.

1.  To begin remove sticks, stones, leaves and other debris and loosen up the top 2-3 inches of soil.  Leave the loosened soil in small clumps and apply a starter fertilizer.

2.  When seeding large areas use a spreader or a mechanical seeder, smaller areas can be seeded evenly by hand.  Check out Greenview Fairway Formula Grass Seed.

3.  Cover the seedbed with about a 1/4 inch of soil.  Then apply a seed accelerator such as Greenview Grass Seed Accelerator over the soil to help retain moisture.  The pellets in the Greenview Grass Seed Accelerator have a patented moisture cell technology which allows the pellets to expand to hold water.  When the soil in the seedbed begins to dry, the pellets release the water to keep seedlings moist.

4.  Watering the new seedlings is very important for germination.  Water lightly and frequently at least once a day.  Make sure you keep the roots of the new grass moist.

How to Choose a Spreader

Most people use a mechanical spreader to distribute lawn treatments to their property.  These come in two sorts – a Drop Spreader and a Rotary Spreader. Both of these models require that you fill a hopper with material and push the spreader over the lawn.  For most homeowners, the biggest problem is knowing how far the spreader is depositing the nutrients. 

With a drop spreader, the device will have an opening in the base of the hopper that runs the width of the hopper.  When a trigger is pulled, the slot cover is pulled back and the material runs through the opening onto the grass.  As you walk, pushing the spreader ahead of you, the material is spread across the lawn.  The biggest problem with these spreaders is that for a large area of grass, you need to walk up and down numerous times. The swath of lawn fertilized for each run is limited to the width of the spreader, and probably no more than eighteen to twenty four inches.  The advantage is that when you have smaller areas, or areas close to walkways and flowerbeds, the chemicals are dropped right below the spreader and not onto surrounding areas.

With a rotary spreader, the material is placed into the hopper in the same way as for the drop spreader.  The prime difference is that the opening drops material onto a segmented dish, with only a small amount of material going into each segment.  When you walk behind this device, the dish rotates and flings the material onto the surrounding areas, thus covering a much wider area than the drop spreader.  Getting even coverage with this type of machine is more difficult, so make sure that you know how far the material goes and adjust your aisles accordingly.

For both spreaders, it is recommended that you cover the lawn in one direction, spreading one half the fertilizer.  Then cover the lawn a second time but in the perpendicular direction, using the second half of the fertilizer. 

Adjust the settings on the spreaders according to the label on the bag so that you get the appropriate amount of material spread evenly on the lawn.  If you are using Greenview products, and your spreader is not listed on the label, use our handy Spreader Setting Tool to find the appropriate spreader setting for your Greenview Lawn Care Products.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.

How to Do a Soil Test

Plants require certain nutrients to thrive, and unless the pH of the soil is at the correct level, the plant cannot absorb these nutrients. A soil test establishes these levels. The most common chemicals tested for in a soil test include calcium, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, as well as pH.  It is important for the homeowner to assess these levels prior to developing a fertilization regime.  The test results will let you know how much lime, nitrogen and other nutrients your lawn or garden requires. 

To take a soil test you need to dig appropriate samples of the soil.  For a lawn area this is under the turf, to a depth of about 6 inches.  Sample several areas of the lawn and mix them together in a clean plastic or glass container, before transferring the sample to a bag or box, as required by the laboratory. Total sample should be around one cup in volume. For accurate tests, avoid areas that may be contaminated such as a driveway or road that is salted, or compost piles.  Allow excessively moist samples to air dry before testing or packing.  Do tests for each area of the garden where you intend to grow different things such as azaleas, herbs, tomatoes and lawn, all of which require slightly different fertilizers and amendments.  The Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension is a part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  Extension offices are located in most states, and will provide information regarding where to send soil samples for testing and the cost (generally under $25).  For a list of State Cooperative Extension Agencies, refer to this url: State Cooperative Extension Agencies.

Home tests kits are also available to test pH and a limited number of nutrients.  Prepare the sample for these tests in the same way as for laboratory testing, but follow the instructions for specific needs.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com

How to Select the Right Grass Seed for Your Lawn

One of the most important factors in selecting grass seed for your lawn is to decide which species (or mix of species) best fits your climate, site use, and intended maintenance level   This is important whether you are deciding on the initial selection for new home lawns, atheletic fields or commercial sites; or for overseeding or renovating your existing turf to add newer improved varieties to the turfgrass population.

Turfgrass breeders make improvements in varieties every year, some also do research and try to find the newest, most cutting edge varieties available. The cost of the seed is a very small portion of the total cost of any seeding job, so choose the best seed varieties available that fit your site requirements. You have to live with the turfgrass variety decision for years, so it makes sense to buy the best varieties available.

Your research is made a little easier by utilizing the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). This program establishes tests at University sites across the US and Canada and publishes unbiased rankings on the web site www.ntep.org. You can find out which varieties of a particular species ranked the highest nationally and at locations near you. This is a good starting point. Also, talk with your local seed suppliers about which varieties perform well in your area. As the NTEP tests operate on a five - year rotation, be sure to ask about newly released varieties that may be available, especially if they are in the later years of that species NTEP test rotation. Great improvements can be made during that time and data from research universities may be available for these new varieties. 

The following will focus on cool season species because they are all available as seed. Warm season species are primarily available vegetatively – i.e. Sod or stolons. Cool season species are most widely adapted in the northern two-thirds of the United States. The middle third of the country is called the transition zone – where both warm season and cool season species are grown. Each of the most popular cool season species has unique characteristics and are covered below.

De-Thatching (Yin and Yang of Lawn Care)

What is De-thatching?

De-thatching is one of the most overlooked tasks in lawn care and lawn maintenance. The thatch layer is made up of brown decaying plant matter just above the soil which builds up and prevents nutrients and moisture from reaching turf roots. This layer is also a friendly environment for fungus to grow. Even though thatch is regarded as a detriment to a healthy lawn it also has positive qualities in that thatch can prevent weeds from geminating, hold in moisture and protect grass from frost damage. There is a general rule that more than ½ inch of thatch is not beneficial so keeping an eye on thatch thickness is very important.

De-thatching - A Timely Task

The best time to de-thatch a lawn is in late spring and early fall when grass growth is most active as it can bounce back from stress more quickly.  As mentioned above a thin layer of thatch can protect against frost damage so if you see frost, it is better to refrain from de-thatching your lawn.  If you forget to de-thatch your lawn in late spring do not do so during mid summer because you are removing the protective layer that is often needed for soil water retention during times when mild drought conditions are present.  You also want to avoid de-thatching when weeds are germinating, this can cause an explosion of weeds you didn’t even know existed.  De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.

De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.

To determine the depth of thatch you can cut a small square of sod out of your lawn and measure the depth of the thatch, but most people just pull aside their grass and estimate the thatch thickness.  Some lawn care experts can determine how much thatch is underfoot by the feel of the bounce of their step on a lawn. 

How to De-thatch

The best way to de-thatch a small lawn is with a thatching rake which has thick blades designed to pull thatch out of turf without pulling up the grass itself.  For larger lawns rent or buy a vertical mower (a.k.a. de-thatcher) which has rotating blades that scrape, cut and remove thatch from turf.

DO NOT de-thatch a lawn and leave it bare, follow up with lawn aeration, fertilizing and watering to support the lawn during its growth cycle.

I see thatch as the yin and yang of lawn care and lawn maintenance.  If you have too little thatch at the wrong time of year, weeds will germinate and lawns can either burn or freeze depending on the conditions.  It is smart to write down de-thatching times and take this task very seriously, if you do so you are going to be rewarded with balance in the form of a greatly improved turf.

Article provided by Aaron Pratt who has his own website dedicated to the subject of

  Lawn Care and Lawn Maintenance.

Ten Steps in Lawn Care

Fall is a great time to start a new lawn.  The Lawn Institute provides Ten Steps in Growing a Healthy New Lawn:

Step 1. Test the Soil: determine what nutrients your soil needs and so you know what fertilizer will best suit your lawn.

Step 2. Control Weeds: Most annual weeds can be controlled by tilling the soil. A potential problem is the perennial weeds that are capable of regrowing, even though the top parts may have been removed.

Step 3. Prepare the Soil: Your soil test results will indicate if fertilizer is needed and at what rate. Here is a list of GreenView fertilizers.

Step 4. Till the Soil: Tilling does several things. It works the fertilizer and the pH control materials into the soil. It helps the new grass roots grow into the soil and it makes the soil easier to smooth out and make level.

Step 5. Rake: Use a garden-type rake to remove any rocks and debris that the tiller has brought to the surface. This also is the last chance to work on contouring and low spots

Step 6. Apply Seed: Buy the best quality seed available. Here's the GreenView list of top quality seeds.  You will also want to apply a mulch over top the seeds to help keep it from drying out too quickly.  Straw is commonly used, however, not recommended as it can be a source of weed seeds which will germinate along with your grass seeds.  An alternative to consider is GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator, a biodegradable material that will keep seeds moist and protected till they are established.  An added benefit is the material does not need to be taken up once the plant is established.

Step 7. Water: The newly seeded or sprigged lawn must be kept moist, NOT saturated.

Step 8. Mow: As the new lawn grows, it will be necessary to mow. Set the mower for the recommended height of your grass variety.

Step 9. Fertilize: When the seeded lawn is 6 to 8 weeks old, it's time for the first application of fertilizer.

Step 10. Control Weeds: All newly seeded lawns will have unwanted weeds, most of which came from the soil and if a straw mulch. Annual weeds should be controlled by mowing.

Eight Steps for Seeding Success

If your lawn is looking thin and stressed from a summer of abuse from the weather and heavy use, Fall is the perfect time to reseed, overseed and plant new grass.  Here's an eight-step plan that can help you achieve the lawn you've always wanted.

1. Select high quality grass seed to match your current lawn and growing conditions.
2. Loosen the soil surface in order to provide a place for the seed to nest.
3. Sprinkle the grass seed on the soil. Direct contact is critical for fast seed germination and plant establishment.
4. Apply planting mulch like our GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator over the seed.  (Don't use straw as it tends to include weed seeds which will germinate along with the grass seed.)
5. Water in thoroughly, keeping the soil surface moist to speed up germination.
6. Mow the lawn twice after new seeds have germinated.
7. Apply fertilizer to enrich the lawn
8. Enjoy your lush, green lawn!

Fall is Prime Time for Renovating Lawns

The cooler temperatures and adequate soil moisture that come with fall make September and early October the best months to renovate an existing lawn, especially in the Midwest and East.

Whether seeding bare spots or overseeding an existing lawn, preparation of the area is critical to success.  Here are some tips:

• Take a soil sample to learn the nutrient values of your soil.  This is particularly critical for new lawns or major renovations of lawns.  The information will determine what additives to use.  For information about soil testing, contact your county extension office.
• Mow the grass as short as possible.  Loosen the top 1/4 inch of soil with a rake.  Clear the area of grass, weeds, twigs, rocks, soil lumps and other debris.  Smooth out the soil.
• Buy the best lawn seed you can afford, such as GreenView Fairway Formula Grass Seed.  This is not the time to be frugal.  The garden cetner or retailer where you buy your seed will be able to guide you in the type, mix and rate of application and any equipment needed.
• Sow the seed by hand for small areas and with a spreader for larger spaces.
• Lightly rake the seeded areas and gently tamp the seed to the soil to ensure good contact.
• Apply a starter fertilizer, such as GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator, a biodegradable product that helps the soil retain moisture and fertilizes seedlings.  This product eliminates the need to add straw or other mulch, thereby reducing or eliminating the introduction of weeds in newly seeded lawns.
• It is imperative that the seeded beds be kept moist, but not wet, until the grass has been mowed once.  That means watering at least once a day.  Once the grass gets about 2 inches tall, you can start to cut back on watering.
• Mow when the new growth reaches 4 inches.  Mow to a 3 inch height.

For more Landscape Tips for the Fall Season sign up for the Preen Newsletter.

Preen and GreenView are products of the Lebanon Seaboard Corporation.

New Lawn Care Website, The Grass Guide

It's so much fun to search the internet not only for helpful lawn care information, but lawn care websites as well. I found one today, The Grass Guide, that has loads of info covering pretty much all aspects of lawn maintenance.

The list is outlined in the left-hand column, so information is easy to find. The articles I perused were quite helpful too, in my estimation. Check it out and see what you think.

While you're at it, don't forget Greenview Online. It has a lot of helpful tips as well.

Waiting Period to Sow Grass Seed

QUESTION/COMMENT: How long should I wait after applying spring fertilizer to reseed barespots?

ANSWER: There is no waiting period to sow grass seed with Greenview Fairway Formula Spring 26-4-12 Fertilizer.