in Equipment, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing
January 06, 2007
Robotic Lawn Mowers - The Advantage is Yours.
Robotic lawn mowers are now available in sizes suited for any lawn size and there are quite a few advantages to robotic mowing aside from the obvious fact that you don’t need to push or drive them.
One of the most important advantages is that they are environmentally friendly. Government studies have shown that a gasoline powered lawn mower can belch out more emissions than a typical SUV. In addition, spillage of gasoline and improper motor oil disposal is in the millions of gallons every year. By comparison, robotic mowers run on electricity and most use about as much juice as a 100 watt light bulb. A larger unit, capable of handling more than five acres, will use about as much as a standard refrigerator.
Tired of all the noise ruining your little corner of paradise? Robotic mowers produce little noise and are even quiet enough to run at night without upsetting your neighbor.
These robotic wonders also provide advantages related to the health of your lawn. One of the things that cause the most stress on a lawn is cutting it. The accepted rule of thumb is that no more than one third of the blade length should be removed with each mowing. To stick to this rule, most people would have to cut more than they do now which is not very appealing. With a robotic mower, you can set it to cut as often as you like and it will be happy to do so.
The Belrobotics Bigmow and KA LawnBott series are designed to run daily and just trim the tips of the grass. This maintains the lawn in a way that would make a golf course manager green with envy.
The Robomower acts more like a traditional mower in that it has three mulching chambers that reduce clippings to a very small size. It can handle the “one third rule” without leaving any turf smothering clumps. If you are the type of person that likes razor straight stripes, you would have to learn to do without. All of the units cut from different angles with each mowing. Fortunately, this is the recommended mowing method for healthy grass and the results will appear more as a sea of green than that of a baseball field.
If you want a beautiful lawn with less effort, robotic mowing just might deserve a look.
Probotics provides a robotic lawn mower selection guide that may help you decide.
Posted on January 6, 2007 in Equipment, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing | Permalink | Comments (10) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns
July 11, 2006
Summer Lawn Care
Children and adults enjoy walking across soft, springy grass. Green is a restful color and pleasant to look at particularly if you have the chance to partake of an early cup of coffee outside in the morning. Lawn maintenance is still needed throughout the summer.
The Heat Factor
Cool season grasses go dormant in hot weather. In prolonged heat, these grasses take on both the color and the texture of shredded wheat rather than soft springy, green grass. Water will not make the grass grow, but will prevent the soil surface from hardening and cracking. Do not fertilize your lawn until the hot weather breaks. If you used Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizer the grass will have nutrients available for when cooler days arrive.
Water
Frequent short bursts of water do not soak into the root zone; they evaporate before the grass can use them. So water early in the morning, and water well. Set a small cup within reach of the sprinkler and water until that cup has one inch of water in it. If you do this weekly, your grass will be able to withstand the heat and stress of the summer.
Humidity
Locations that experience hot, humid summers can be prone to fungus problems in the lawn. If your lawn suffers from a fungus, do not water at night as that will encourage dampness on the lawn and create a great environment for the fungus to spread. Use Greenview Problem Solver - Bayleton to eradicate the fungus before resuming your watering regime.
Cutting
During the hotest stretch of the summer, keep the mover height around 3-4 inches. This will keep the grass long enough to inhibit weeds and will keep the surface cool and moist enough to sustain good growth.
In addition to the many lawn care articles on the Greenview Blog, check out the Greenview Fertilizer Website for more lawn care advice and tips.
Author Kate Copsey can be reached at www.katecopsey.com.
Posted on July 11, 2006 in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Q&A
February 12, 2006
Lawn Care 101 - Tips for Growing Grass
When grass is coming out of dormancy in the spring, the tendency is to feed heavily creating an instant green lawn. However, heavy feeding creates excess top growth at the expense of the root system. Consequently, although you mow often to keep the lawn in shape, the grass cannot put energy into the roots so that it can survive the heat of the summer. When choosing a fertilizer this spring, look for a slow release fertilizer. Slow release fertilizers provide a controlled release of the nitrogen nutrients so the grass does not get that sudden influx of high nitrogen. A slow release nitrogen fertilizer yeilds benefits to the grass plant and prevents the release of excess nitrogen that can contaminate the area watershed.
With grass growing at a healthy, rather than excessive rate, you can concentrate on correct mowing of the lawn. Before you start mowing make sure that your mower has clean, sharp blades. Cut the grass blades to 4”-6”. This depth will allow the roots to stay cool and moist by creating a barrier between airborne seeds and the ground so weeds cannot germinate. If you plan to use a weed and feed fertilizer, look for one that offers a pre-emergent and post emergent herbicide. Applying a pre and post emergent herbicide before the grass is too high will kill any existing weeds, including crabgrass, while they are still small. Never cut more than one third of the blade each time, so for overlong grass, mow once on a high setting, then a second time to the correct length.
Root systems need water to sustain the lawn, so water regularly but deeply. Lawns need 1” of water per week. This may come as rain, but often will need to be provided by the homeowner. To calibrate overhead watering systems, place a container within range of the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill to 1”.
Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers uses a patented timed release nitrogen technology developed for and used by championship golf courses. One application of fertilizer in the spring and one application in fall provides a complete annual feeding program.
Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer with weed control is a proprietary product that combines both a crabgrass preventer (pre-emergent herbicide) with a broadleaf weed control (post-emergent herbicide) with the university recommended amount of slow release nitrogen.
Check Out Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers.
Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.
Posted on February 12, 2006 in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Q&A | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns
February 05, 2006
DIY Lawn Care
Do you feel as though your lawn is taking control of your weekends? For many homeowners the ritual of mowing and fertilizing cycles takes over, so they contract with a commercial company to take over the treatments, leaving the homeowner just to do the mowing. This may seem like a straight forward solution, but for any service, you have to pay a hefty price. Most services require a full year contract and will treat the lawn every month. Many do-it-yourself lawn care programs also advocate a monthly treatment which takes time and money. Greenview prefers that you have your weekends to yourself for fun. They created a system whereby the slow release of chemicals requires only two applications of fertilizer for the entire growing season.
Click here to learn more about the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan.
When the Greenview Fairway Formula treatment is applied at the correct time, weeds are suppressed and the lawn is given a boost to encourage lush spring growth. The growth though is not excessive because the slow release nutrients are timed to enter the soil at a slower rate. Further fertilization is not needed. A subscription plan will allow your fertilizer to be shipped direct to your home at the optimum time for your area. No waiting in line at the local hardware store when everyone else realizes that they need lawn care treatments. No confusion about when you should put down the treatment. The best treatment for your specific area also includes treatments especially formulated for those in a phosphate free region.
Greenview also offers flexibility. Whether you need just a fertilizer, or you need to fertilize and kill weeds, Greenview has a suitable product for your lawn, and it is dispatched at just the right time.
See What People are Saying About Their Results Using Greenview Products!
Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.
Posted on February 5, 2006 in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control
January 29, 2006
How to Do a Soil Test
Plants require certain nutrients to thrive, and unless the pH of the soil is at the correct level, the plant cannot absorb these nutrients. A soil test establishes these levels. The most common chemicals tested for in a soil test include calcium, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, as well as pH. It is important for the homeowner to assess these levels prior to developing a fertilization regime. The test results will let you know how much lime, nitrogen and other nutrients your lawn or garden requires.
To take a soil test you need to dig appropriate samples of the soil. For a lawn area this is under the turf, to a depth of about 6 inches. Sample several areas of the lawn and mix them together in a clean plastic or glass container, before transferring the sample to a bag or box, as required by the laboratory. Total sample should be around one cup in volume. For accurate tests, avoid areas that may be contaminated such as a driveway or road that is salted, or compost piles. Allow excessively moist samples to air dry before testing or packing. Do tests for each area of the garden where you intend to grow different things such as azaleas, herbs, tomatoes and lawn, all of which require slightly different fertilizers and amendments. The Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension is a part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Extension offices are located in most states, and will provide information regarding where to send soil samples for testing and the cost (generally under $25). For a list of State Cooperative Extension Agencies, refer to this url: State Cooperative Extension Agencies.
Home tests kits are also available to test pH and a limited number of nutrients. Prepare the sample for these tests in the same way as for laboratory testing, but follow the instructions for specific needs.
Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com
Posted on January 29, 2006 in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack
in Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Q&A
January 23, 2006
How to Select the Right Grass Seed for Your Lawn
One of the most important factors in selecting grass seed for your lawn is to decide which species (or mix of species) best fits your climate, site use, and intended maintenance level This is important whether you are deciding on the initial selection for new home lawns, atheletic fields or commercial sites; or for overseeding or renovating your existing turf to add newer improved varieties to the turfgrass population.
Turfgrass breeders make improvements in varieties every year, some also do research and try to find the newest, most cutting edge varieties available. The cost of the seed is a very small portion of the total cost of any seeding job, so choose the best seed varieties available that fit your site requirements. You have to live with the turfgrass variety decision for years, so it makes sense to buy the best varieties available.
Your research is made a little easier by utilizing the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). This program establishes tests at University sites across the US and Canada and publishes unbiased rankings on the web site www.ntep.org. You can find out which varieties of a particular species ranked the highest nationally and at locations near you. This is a good starting point. Also, talk with your local seed suppliers about which varieties perform well in your area. As the NTEP tests operate on a five - year rotation, be sure to ask about newly released varieties that may be available, especially if they are in the later years of that species NTEP test rotation. Great improvements can be made during that time and data from research universities may be available for these new varieties.
The following will focus on cool season species because they are all available as seed. Warm season species are primarily available vegetatively – i.e. Sod or stolons. Cool season species are most widely adapted in the northern two-thirds of the United States. The middle third of the country is called the transition zone – where both warm season and cool season species are grown. Each of the most popular cool season species has unique characteristics and are covered below.
Kentucky Bluegrass
Kentucky Bluegrass is a widely adapted species that is used for many situations. Its dark green color and medium fine texture contributes to it sometimes being called the king of lawn grasses. Kentucky bluegrass is able to spread and recover because it grows by underground primary lateral stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes grow out from the main plant and form a new plant, allowing it to form a dense cover. Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice for athletic fields, home lawns, and golf courses. For high quality turf, Kentucky bluegrass should receive medium to high maintenance.
Perennial Ryegrass
Perennial ryegrass has a non-spreading, bunch type growth habit. It germinates and establishes quickly. It has a dark green color, medium fine texture, and good mowing characteristics. Perennial ryegrass may be seeded alone or in mixtures with other species.
Tall Fescue
Tall fescue is another bunch type grass that persists in the warmer areas of the cool season range of adaptation. This is primarily due to the fact that it has a deep root system, which helps it be more heat and drought tolerant. Plant breeders have made great improvements in this species over the last decade. The newer varieties are as dark green and almost as fine textured as the improved Kentucky bluegrass varieties. It does not tolerate as close a mowing height as Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, so a mowing height of 1.5 –3 inches is recommended. Tall fescue requires slightly less water and fertilizer to produce a high quality turf stand.
Fine Fescue
Creeping red fescue is the most widely used of the three main fine leafed fescues. It has slow spreading rhizomes. Chewings fescue and Hard fescue have a bunch –type growth habit. All have a fine leaf texture. They are particularly well adapted to dry, shady conditions as well as low maintenance situations. The fine fescues are primarily used in mixes with other species like Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass
Whichever species you choose, always try to choose the best varieties available at the time with superior genetics that have improved disease and insect resistance, and drought tolerance, and that will fit your long-term management plans.
For information on Greenview’s highly rated turfgrass varieties in the Greenview Fairway Formula line of seed mixes and blends, please visit: www.greenviewfertilizer.com.
Posted on January 23, 2006 in Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Q&A | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack
in Gardening, Hear From The Experts, New Lawns, Plants
October 21, 2005
Fall Planting Tips
Late fall or early winter is a great time to plant trees and shrubs, many of which will be on sale at area nurseries and garden centers.
As long as the ground is not frozen, you can plant container-grown trees and shrubs, nursery stock that is balled-and-burlapped, or transplant woody plants from one spot in your landscape to another.
Planting container or balled-and-burlapped stock:
When planting container or balled-and-burlapped stock, dig the hole at least twice as wide as the root ball. The hole should not be any deeper than the height of the root ball. If you err, do so on the high side. Planting trees or shrubs too deep causes them to rot and eventually fall over.
Backfill the hole with the soil that came from the site. Amending the soil with peat moss, fertilizers, compost or other matter is not recommended. Use your foot to tamp down the soil around the new plant. Water well.
Continue to supplement rainfall, as needed, to ensure the new plant gets about an inch of water every week until the ground freezes.
Transplanting shrubs and trees:
When transplanting a shrub or tree in your landscape, it's best for the plant to be dormant. Usually once a plant has dropped it's leaves, it is dormant.
Prepare the new planting site before digging the plant. Again, the hole should be about twice the width of the root ball and about the same depth as the plant was growing in it's old site.
Use a sharp spade or shovel when digging the plant, trying to lift as much of the root ball as possible. Move to the new site as soon as possible so the roots won't dry out. If you are delayed in the planting process, cover the root ball with moistened newspapers or cloth. Again, no need to amend the soil. Finish the planting as described above.
Plant Bulbs now to brighten the landscape
When planting or transplanting trees and shrubs this fall, add a few spring flowering bulbs to the landscape. Find a spot and plant daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and other spring flowering bulbs. You'll be glad you did when they brighten the landscape next spring.
Posted on October 21, 2005 in Gardening, Hear From The Experts, New Lawns, Plants | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Disease/Insect Control, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control
September 27, 2005
De-Thatching (Yin and Yang of Lawn Care)
What is De-thatching?
De-thatching is one of the most overlooked tasks in lawn care and lawn maintenance. The thatch layer is made up of brown decaying plant matter just above the soil which builds up and prevents nutrients and moisture from reaching turf roots. This layer is also a friendly environment for fungus to grow. Even though thatch is regarded as a detriment to a healthy lawn it also has positive qualities in that thatch can prevent weeds from geminating, hold in moisture and protect grass from frost damage. There is a general rule that more than ½ inch of thatch is not beneficial so keeping an eye on thatch thickness is very important.
De-thatching - A Timely Task
The best time to de-thatch a lawn is in late spring and early fall when grass growth is most active as it can bounce back from stress more quickly. As mentioned above a thin layer of thatch can protect against frost damage so if you see frost, it is better to refrain from de-thatching your lawn. If you forget to de-thatch your lawn in late spring do not do so during mid summer because you are removing the protective layer that is often needed for soil water retention during times when mild drought conditions are present. You also want to avoid de-thatching when weeds are germinating, this can cause an explosion of weeds you didn’t even know existed. De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.
De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.
To determine the depth of thatch you can cut a small square of sod out of your lawn and measure the depth of the thatch, but most people just pull aside their grass and estimate the thatch thickness. Some lawn care experts can determine how much thatch is underfoot by the feel of the bounce of their step on a lawn.
How to De-thatch
The best way to de-thatch a small lawn is with a thatching rake which has thick blades designed to pull thatch out of turf without pulling up the grass itself. For larger lawns rent or buy a vertical mower (a.k.a. de-thatcher) which has rotating blades that scrape, cut and remove thatch from turf.
DO NOT de-thatch a lawn and leave it bare, follow up with lawn aeration, fertilizing and watering to support the lawn during its growth cycle.
I see thatch as the yin and yang of lawn care and lawn maintenance. If you have too little thatch at the wrong time of year, weeds will germinate and lawns can either burn or freeze depending on the conditions. It is smart to write down de-thatching times and take this task very seriously, if you do so you are going to be rewarded with balance in the form of a greatly improved turf.
Article provided by Aaron Pratt who has his own website dedicated to the subject of
Lawn Care and Lawn Maintenance.
Posted on September 27, 2005 in Disease/Insect Control, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Hear From The Experts
August 25, 2005
Horse owners ask what to do about weeds?
Every year GreenView customer service representatives receive calls from horse owners looking for advice on how to get rid of weeds in their pastures. Many times they come to me for guidance on what to advise the caller. I happen to own three horses of my own and can be somewhat obsessive and passionate about them.
My best advice is to contact your veterinarian and ask for their advice on what to use.
Horses have digestive systems that can be thrown out of kilter by the smallest changes. Anyone owning a horse knows the financial investment, not to mention the emotional attachment. So before you put a product on areas your horse will come in contact with give the vet a call.
Lori Zimmerman, Retail Marketing Manager and Horse Owner
Posted on August 25, 2005 in Hear From The Experts | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Hear From The Experts
May 05, 2005
Hear From the Greenview Experts
Earlier, I mentioned visiting the Greenview Online website. One section you may want to check out is called "Hear From Our Experts." Greenview has trained agronomists on staff that "pontificate" on lawncare-related matters and provide expert advice.
Here is some of what they're talking about:
Posted on May 5, 2005 in Hear From The Experts | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack










