The Green View

What's In The Jar? "Beetle Juice"?

Do your neighbor a favor: prevent a grub and kill a beetle…

Since 1830, when a guy named Edwin Budding invented a lawn mowing gadget at a time when only the very wealthy could afford to maintain a lawn, there were grubs. From the 1800’s to the 2000’s and probably beyond, turf-lovers, lawn cultivators, and gardeners have always and will forever have to endure the persistent destructive force of the white grub and Japanese Beetle.

Grubs are insect larvae that live in the soil and feed upon roots and rhizomes. These are the very worst of the turfgrass pests because they are so difficult to control with surface-applied insecticides. To reach the insects, the insecticide must penetrate the turf, continue through the thatch and down, down into the soil. So be sure to rake and possibly de-thatch your lawn prior to treating it for pest problems like these, and water well so the insecticide will penetrate deeply into the turf.

The timeframe of the initial emergence of grubs varies throughout the country, but in the heartland, these dreaded parasites can appear from early to mid-June and peak in mid-July. Although the white grubs are young beetles, unfortunately, wiping out the grubs does not always solve your adult beetle problem. Why? That’s simple, because they fly! The flight of the adult Japanese beetle can take them as much as one or two miles around the neighborhood.

However, despite this issue of flight, prevention is a very good place to start and will certainly diminish your adult beetle infestation. To prevent white grub larvae from destroying your lawn in the first place, use our Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (Mach 2). (This formula will also prevent damage from Northern and Southern masked chafer, European chafer, cutworms, armyworms and sod webworms). The recommended preventative process begins with minimizing the thatch. Then apply the product with a spreader prior to grub egg hatch (generally in late spring through mid summer). Especially if your lawn is in a drought condition, water it in thoroughly. If it’s too late for prevention, use Greeniew’s Grub Control (Dylox) as a curative. This product is an easy-to-use, clean granular formula that you apply after de-thatching and mowing your lawn. For a truly effective “cure,” after applying with a spreader, don’t forget to water in the product thoroughly so that the granules reach the soil where the grubs are hungrily feeding on the roots of your precious turf! For those in New York State, where there are certain restrictions, we recommend the use of Grub Control Dylox as a curative.

My Personal Beetle Story…

As for those pesky adult beetles, my own “beetle story” might be an amusing and illustrative tale. The use of Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (Mach 2) is an excellent solution for the grub problem that  plagues our lawn year after year here in the Garden State. However, in my family, in addition to our strong love of the lawn, there is a tradition of rose cultivation. Maybe it’s because mom’s name is Marie Rose and as a gift to her, my father worked hard to grow the most beautiful varieties of tea roses with a scent that was at once amazing and relaxing. Their distinctive perfume made me recall those memorable evenings on the back porch with mom and dad, sipping iced tea and admiring his lawn and gardens and particularly the latest rose cuttings arranged in trumpet-shaped vases. Little did I realize the amount of time and effort that went into growing those precious rose bushes.

Several years ago, in memory of my dad and with uncommon enthusiasm, I began to plant my own rose bushes in the perennial garden that frames my lawn, and I expected a similar result of tender buds turning to the bloom of fragrant tea and heirloom roses each and every spring.

Instead, I quickly became engaged in the “Battle of the Beetle!” Just as the buds began to appear between the leaves of the fragile new rose buds, the adult Japanese Beetles appeared en masse! They munched on my rose bush leaves voraciously! I was losing the battle and my pock-marked roses looked nothing like dad’s. I will emphasize one point to you in particular—those expensive and smelly Beetle Traps don’t work!! They should re-name these contraptions Beetle resorts! These traps will attract beetle colonies from miles around and you will have so many more than you ever imagined! Only one thing works for me on these horrid adult bugs—I knock them off the plants one by one in early morning when they are most sluggish, and I collect them in a jar of soap suds.

I wouldn’t recommend this gorilla warfare tactic for larger gardens, but in smaller spaces, this laborious process may work for you. If you are lucky, you’ll get the roses you dreamed of, and you’ll also end up with a collection of beetle jars holding a solution that turns to pretty disgusting “beetle juice,” which you can discard or keep as a demonstration to all who ask you that inevitable recurring spring gardening question: “How the heck do you get rid of Japanese Beetles?”

Content and images courtesy of Rutgers University and Purdue University.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

What Grows Like A Weed?

If it looks like a weed, smells like a weed, and grows like a weed, it’s probably a WEED! 

My favorite weed is called “Creeping Charlie.” It boasts such a pretty lavender flower, but oh does that vine spread! I once spent an hour on my hands and knees pulling them out—not a pretty picture for passers-by. Let’s face it, we all find weeds in our lawns and gardens at least some of the time. But the healthier your lawn is, the easier it will be to combat weeds. How do you keep your lawn healthy? First, you select the right lawn grasses for your climate zone and sun exposure, then you choose the right fertilizer and lime (depending on your soil test results), de-thatch and aerate if needed, and lastly, you mow and water.

The absolute best weed preventative is to follow a good lawn maintenance schedule. Using the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan takes the guesswork out of it for you, and will result in a spring lawn that’s weed-free. Just one application of Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer 24-2-8 addresses two lawn spoilers: weeds and crabgrass. And believe me…it’s much easier to prevent the weeds from growing in the first place, rather than having to battle them once their roots have well…taken root deep into the soil!

If your lawn is rather thin lawn and struggling to survive, you may find that good old favorite, the  dandelion, invading your lawn here, there and everywhere!

What are the most common lawn weeds?

Well there’s the annual broadleaf weed, like chickweed and knotweed that form a tough mat. Then you have your perennial broadleaf weeds, like dandelions, violets, and ground ivy. Then there are your annual and perennial grassy weeds like crabgrass and foxtail with fuzzy seed heads. There are dozens more, but these are some of the most common.

So don’t wait until the dandelions turn to puff balls and start spreading their seeds all over your lawn. Spring Fertilizer Weed and Feed with Crabgrass Preventer provides both: a slow release nitrogen that fertilizes your lawn up to 12 weeks with controlled, steady nutrition over a longer period of time, and it prevents crabgrass and kills dandelions, clover, viney weeds and over 200 other broadleaf weeds as it fertilizes. There’s no excess growth, you mow less, and you get a healthier, greener, weed-free lawn!

So rise up from your knees and smell the roses instead of the weeds!

Content courtesy of the University of Wisconsin. Pictures courtesy of Love to Know and University of Wisconsin.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

Mow, Mow, Mow the Lawn…

With spring showers and the best Greenview Fertilizer products stimulating the growth of the most beautiful lawn you’ve ever created, you’ll soon be merrily, merrily mowing and watering to keep your lawn looking neat, trim and green.

Besides our desire for the look of a “manicured lawn” that we all admire, why do we mow our lawns? It’s a lawn maintenance practice that’s part of our American culture because mowing regularly and mowing properly is important if you want a weed-free, golf-course quality lawn that is stress free.

Lawn Mowers

And what’s a sunny weekend in the burbs without the hum of gas or electric-powered lawn mowers, cutting and vacuuming up the pieces of excess turf? From push-behind, or stand-behind to the sleek and  fast riding zero-turn mowers and tractors, before you buy, examine the most important functions of these common rotary-type mowers. They are: the height adjustments, mulching capabilities for recycling, cutting width, horse-power and innovative features like self-propelled mowers with speed sensing and cruise-control. Whichever mower you use, pay special attention to proper cutting height. Cut your grass too short and it will develop a shallow root system and weakling roots that will be easily stressed in the summer heat. You want turfgrass with a deep, strong root system, and higher mowing heights result in stronger roots and fewer weeds.

How often should you mow?

During periods of active turfgrass growth, your lawn may require mowing more than once per week. Mow about 1/3 of the leaf blade during any one mowing. Generally, you should mow when the grass is dry, but if it rains quite a bit and the grass becomes too wet for timely mowing, the turfgrass may shoot up and become quite tall. In this case, do a “double cut,” mowing at the highest setting and once the lawn dries, mow again to the recommended height. And don’t forget to vary your mowing direction to avoid the “rut” effect.

Some additional tips for proper mowing:

• Mow your grass at the right height during the summer, about 1 to 3 inches (it actually varies by grass type.)
• Each mowing season, tune up your mower and keep the blade sharp.
• If you let the grass grow too high, then cut it too low, such scalping can cause your grass plants to go into shock, making them susceptible to drought and disease.
• Mow during the coolest part of the day to avoid browning.
• And don’t forget the headphones—lawn mower engines can be loud!

As with any gardening task, stop mowing and watering occasionally….just to smell the flowers. Enjoy the view!

Content courtesy of Ohio State University Extension. Image courtesy of Green Pro.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

…Water It Properly Too!

Your human body is composed of over 70% water, and a healthy grass plant contains even more water—from 75 to 85 % of its weight! In many climates, high sunlight, temperature, wind and humidity can rob your grass of most of this precious life-sustaining liquid. Without water, new seeds can’t germinate and new grasses can’t absorb their required nutrients. And worse, your grass can wilt, become susceptible to disease and eventually die of thirst. Don’t let this happen to your new or established lawn!

Depending on the rainfall in your area, (and this is easy to measure by placing an empty can outdoors, marked at one inch) you may have to water weekly. However, it is just as easy to over-water your turf as it is to under-water it. An inch per week is a general guideline for most grass types. You’ll know if you have over-watered because your lawn will grow too rapidly, you may see evidence of fungal diseases, and you’ll be mowing more frequently. Over-watering wastes water anyway, and is usually prohibited in drought-prone areas.

Under-watering will result in your lawn going dormant. Your turf will lose its deep green luster and some  grasses could die and you will need to re-seed in fall. Your lawn will signal thirst by becoming a purple-bluish color and it will be easily crushed underfoot. For the southern-most states, warm-season grasses can better withstand most drought conditions.

Some additional watering tips…

• Water deep and infrequently for a healthier root system and fewer weeds.
• Water early in the day (5:00 to 10:00 a.m.) to avoid evaporation.
• Plant drought-tolerant grass—especially in dryer areas of the country.
• For cool-season lawns, apply Greenview Fairway Formula Fall Fertilizer 29-2-10 in the late summer or early fall for better root growth and drought tolerance.
• For a newly sodded or seeded lawn, water more frequently for the first month until your lawn is well-established.
• Aerate to loosen compacted soil and allow water to get to the roots.

For those of you who prefer to water with in-ground sprinkler systems, careful planning, design and installation will ensure an efficient irrigation system. Test for uniform water distribution of your sprinkler heads and adequate overlap to diagnose and prevent either dry or saturated areas that can lead to an unhealthy turf. Testing will also help you figure out how long and how often to run your sprinklers to deliver the right amount of water to your lawn. And lastly, monitor any run-off, and be aware of local regulations to keep your environment clean as a good neighbor should.

Content courtesy of Ohio State University Extension. Images courtesy of Quick and Simple, Virginia Cooperative Extension and My Vine.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

From Lawn to Landscape...enhancing mother nature's gifts

Your lawn is the canvas; your landscape is the finished work of art. A well-designed landscape can bring you unending pleasure on many levels. Your community enjoys the view, you increase your property’s resale value and the colorful birds of the air seek sanctuary in your yard. The cardinals, chickadees, finches and other birds specific to your locale are feeding in the spring, so be sure to have plenty of Lyric Wild Bird Food on hand. Hours and hours of enjoyment are yours when nature is your entertainment.

So you have a lawn and it’s beautiful. Planting trees, shrubbery and plants around the lawn may seem pretty straightforward. But if you attempt this without a plan, you may end up with less than picture-perfect results.

On the other hand, if you spend some time organizing and laying a design on paper, creating a visual  representation of your property with key yard-house-people relationships in mind, the result can be astounding! Most importantly, you’ll want to organize your plantings and decorations to ensure maximum usefulness as well as aesthetics. Every entrance and exit to your home will be enhanced if the function and decor are properly designed.

Being realistic is also a key to successful landscaping that has long lasting beauty. With the vast array of plants, flowers, trees and decorations available on the market today, it’s easy to overdo it. So keep in mind that you also want to reduce the maintenance of your landscape so that it’s practical. If in your design, you consider the time and resources you have, this will help you enjoy it for years to come without regrets.

Some varieties of plants or other materials in the landscape may take up a great deal of space and leave little room for people, and that’s another great reason why planning is essential---to make your landscape livable. And for your landscape plantings, our line of Woodace Tree, Shrub and Plant fertilizers will keep your new and established floras and evergreens healthy and strong throughout all of their growth stages.

Landscape Design Basics…

Most homeowners are not experienced landscape designers, but the “do-it-yourself-er” and even the amateur gardener can very adequately design their own outdoor environment by following a few important principles:

First, observe and analyze the habits of all who will be using the space, including adults, children and pets. List their needs, desires, and activities. Figure out about how much space each of their activities requires. Also pay careful attention to the view in and around your property and to the ecology of the site, for a “greener” way to landscape.

Recognize that the art of landscaping differs from other forms of art because it grows and changes from season to season. A newly landscaped property will hold a promise of blooms and views to come and may look a bit scant at the start. But with time, each specimen and flower bed will grow to fill its intended space and add a variety of color and texture for every month of the year.

In your plan, consider landscape construction too, where walls, pathways, water features lighting or other accents may add symmetry, depth, drama or just another level of enjoyment. For example, a trellis brimming with vines and flowers can be a welcoming entry or a dramatic exit to a garden or pathway. After all that work, decorating with comfortable benches will be a welcome site for the weary gardener or admiring guest.

Finally, consider landscaping to attract birds. Every species of bird has its own unique food requirements, and these may change as the bird matures and as the seasons change. Plant the trees, shrubs, or flowers that will provide the fruits, berries, grains, seeds, acorns, nuts, or nectar they crave. Want more birds? Position plenty of feeders using our Lyric Wild Bird Food for all four seasons and provide a constant and fresh source of water. A frog pond, water garden, or bird  bath will be most effective if the water is dripping, splashing, or moving. Trees, shrubs, tall grass, and bird houses will provide excellent shelter for the birds and protect them from predators. Include a wide variety of plants in your landscape plan to attract a greater number of bird species that will amaze the avid birder.

Using both Greenview lawn and landscape and Lyric Wild Bird Food products, in concert, will make it easy for you to transform your landscape into a work of art—one that will become more than something to admire. It will be an extension of your living space—a true outdoor adventure where you can appreciate and share the wonders of nature with family and friends throughout the year.

Content courtesy of Texas A&M and Baltimore Bird Club.

Images courtesy of By Design Landscaping, Superior Landscaping Solutions, Bird Watchin and Landscape Design Advice.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

Quick Lawn Prep for Winter

To prepare your lawn for winter, make sure to rake up all the leaves no later than 2 weeks after they have fallen.  The leaves will prevent sunlight from reaching the grass, which causes stress, suffocation, and disease. If you don’t have an excessive amount of leaves, you may choose to chop the leaves up with a mulching mower.  These little leaf pieces will decompose quickly and add some nutrients to the grass.  Once you have cleared your lawn of any debris, including sticks and stones, and are sure your lawn is finished growing, give it a final cut.  Also sharpen and clean your mower blades before packing up for winter.

Lawn Thatch How-To

What is lawn thatch?

Thatch is a dense layer of decaying plant matter that accumulates at the surface of the soil.  A small layer of thatch is acceptable because it helps retain moisture and prevent soil compaction.  But when thatch becomes too thick it prevents fertilizer and water from reaching the roots of the grass making them weak.  This build-up of decomposing matter causes your lawn to be more prone to diseases, weeds, thinning, and less tolerant to harsh weather conditions.

How do I check for lawn thatch?

Checking your lawn for thatch is easy.  Cut out a section of your lawn and measure the thatch build-up near the top.  The recommended amount of thatch, which is healthy for your grass, is between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.

How do I prevent thatch?

Do not apply too much quick release nitrogen fertilizer and do not water your lawn lightly and frequently.  Both of these lawn care practices allow your lawn to grow excessively fast and causes more thatch build-up.  Watering your grass lightly and frequently causes the grass to root near the surface in the thatch.  If you water deeply but infrequently this allows the grass roots to grow deeper into the soil allowing a healthier and stronger root system for your lawn.  Using Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers can also help you prevent lawn thatch!

Also a common myth to thatch build-up is from grass clippings left on the lawn after mowing.  This, however, is totally untrue.  These clippings add nutrients to the soil and decompose quickly, so you wont have to go the extra mile to bag them up.

How do I de-thatch my lawn?

The time to de-thatch is before the grass's prime growing season, usually during spring or in early fall.  Manually de-thatching your lawn is the process of raking through the lawn, which can be rather time consuming, but it is less stressing on your lawn than using a power de-thatcher.  Manual de-thatching is suggested for small to medium size lawns with about an inch of thatch.  For larger lawns or if you have a greater amount of thatch, you can rent a power de-thatcher of hire someone to do it for you.  This process may cause your lawn to look rather messy, but it will recover in no time with the growing season right ahead.  Lastly, always make sure that you rake up all debris and thatch when you are finished.

Summer Lawn Care for Cool Season Grass

Mowing

Cool season grasses should be mowed at a higher height during the summer and no shorter than three inches.  This helps the grass to decrease heat and fight drought.  The longer blades also help to shade the soil to preserve moisture and keep temperatures cooler.

Always keep your lawn mower blades sharp throughout the summer.  A dull blade can tear the grass tip which increases moisture loss and can result in browning.

• Watering

With cool season grasses you have the choice of maintaining the lawn so it stays green throughout the summer or leave it to become dormant.  To keep your lawn green all summer long, water deeply but infrequently.  This helps to develop deep root systems which creates better tolerance to harsh weather conditions.  If you decide to allow the lawn to turn brown and go dormant, a healthy lawn can survive for about four to six weeks without watering or rain.  Your lawn will then green-up again after adequate watering.

The best time to water your lawn is in the early morning , the light winds and cool temperatures help to prevent any water loss to evaporation or strong winds.

*Also keep your lawn looking lush and green during the summer with Perk Lawn Revitalizer!

• Grub Control

If you have noticed brown spots on your lawn an easy test to check for grubs is to see if those brown spots can be easily pulled away from the ground.  These grubs eat away at the roots of the grass killing the turf.  Luckily, Greenview offers grub control products to kill these root-eating critters.

Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (Mach 2)

Grub Control (Dylox)

• Types of Cool Season Grass

Bentgrass

Kentucky Bluegrass

Fescue (Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, Sheeps Fescue, Hard Fescue, and Tall Fescue* )

Ryegrass (Perennial and Annual)

• States with Cool Season Grasses

Delaware, Connecticut, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Maryland, Maine, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, North Carolina, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Tennessee, Virginia, Vermont, Washington, Wisconsin, West Virginia.

Grub Prevention

Pests come in many forms. One of them is the White Grub. It can affect all types of grass and turf.  Greenview helps manage this pest.

These grubs are plump, C-shaped insects. They are light in color with dark areas near the rear. They have a distinct brown head. The adults are beetles commonly referred to as May-beetles, June-beetles, and Japanese beetles.  Adult female beetles lay their eggs in the soil.

The grubs hatch and spend most of their life beneath the soil feeding on roots.  Most have rather long life cycles with the grub stage lasting from several months to two to three years.  In heavy infestations; roots are pruned off to the extent that the turf can be rolled back like a carpet, resulting in brown spots of dead turf.  At this point, you will need to kill the the grubs and then reseed the damaged areas.

Because white grubs are soil inhabiting insects, the best solution for control is to apply a granular form insecticide that is watered into the soil.  Greenview offers two products for controlling grubs:

• Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (with Mach 2) is applied in mid summer and provides season long control of grubs.
• Greenview Grub Control (with Dylox) is applied in late summer and kills grubs within 48 hours.

The Best Time to Apply Fertilizers

Wondering about the best time to apply fertilizer? Here are some quick tips from the Greenview Fertilizer website to make it easy for you.

• In the spring, the best time to apply fertilizer is after 3 mowings. Apply .5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet to support growth and to build-up reserves for summer.
• Cool season grasses go dormant in the summer and fertilizing at this time is not recommended.  If you have a warm season grass, your lawn requires frequent fertilization as it grows all summer and needs the added nutrients to maintain health and color.
• Another important time to fertilize is in the fall to help the grass develop a strong root system. Apply 1.5 to 2.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet (Use the higher amount if your lawn is Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, soil is sandy, or grass clippings are not returned to the lawn.)
• Check out the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan where lawn care experts provide recommendations for your lawn program.  They even tell you when and how to apply each fertilizer and weed control treatment - so you get the best results.  The Greenview Annual Lawn Plan makes it easy - all you do is push the spreader!

Greenview - Growing Lawns for 60 Years!