in Equipment, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns

March 12, 2006

How to Choose a Spreader

Most people use a mechanical spreader to distribute lawn treatments to their property.  These come in two sorts – a Drop Spreader and a Rotary Spreader. Both of these models require that you fill a hopper with material and push the spreader over the lawn.  For most homeowners, the biggest problem is knowing how far the spreader is depositing the nutrients. 

With a drop spreader, the device will have an opening in the base of the hopper that runs the width of the hopper.  When a trigger is pulled, the slot cover is pulled back and the material runs through the opening onto the grass.  As you walk, pushing the spreader ahead of you, the material is spread across the lawn.  The biggest problem with these spreaders is that for a large area of grass, you need to walk up and down numerous times. The swath of lawn fertilized for each run is limited to the width of the spreader, and probably no more than eighteen to twenty four inches.  The advantage is that when you have smaller areas, or areas close to walkways and flowerbeds, the chemicals are dropped right below the spreader and not onto surrounding areas.

With a rotary spreader, the material is placed into the hopper in the same way as for the drop spreader.  The prime difference is that the opening drops material onto a segmented dish, with only a small amount of material going into each segment.  When you walk behind this device, the dish rotates and flings the material onto the surrounding areas, thus covering a much wider area than the drop spreader.  Getting even coverage with this type of machine is more difficult, so make sure that you know how far the material goes and adjust your aisles accordingly.

For both spreaders, it is recommended that you cover the lawn in one direction, spreading one half the fertilizer.  Then cover the lawn a second time but in the perpendicular direction, using the second half of the fertilizer. 

Adjust the settings on the spreaders according to the label on the bag so that you get the appropriate amount of material spread evenly on the lawn.  If you are using Greenview products, and your spreader is not listed on the label, use our handy Spreader Setting Tool to find the appropriate spreader setting for your Greenview Lawn Care Products.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.

Posted on March 12, 2006 in Equipment, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Q&A

February 12, 2006

Lawn Care 101 - Tips for Growing Grass

Lawn_1 When grass is coming out of dormancy in the spring, the tendency is to feed heavily creating an instant green lawn.  However, heavy feeding creates excess top growth at the expense of the root system.  Consequently, although you mow often to keep the lawn in shape, the grass cannot put energy into the roots so that it can survive the heat of the summer.  When choosing a fertilizer this spring, look for a slow release fertilizer.  Slow release fertilizers provide a controlled release of the nitrogen nutrients so the grass does not get that sudden influx of high nitrogen. A slow release nitrogen fertilizer yeilds benefits to the grass plant and prevents the release of excess nitrogen that can contaminate the area watershed.

With grass growing at a healthy, rather than excessive rate, you can concentrate on correct mowing of the lawn.  Before you start mowing make sure that your mower has clean, sharp blades.  Cut the grass blades to 4”-6”.   This depth will allow the roots to stay cool and moist by creating a barrier between airborne seeds and the ground so weeds cannot germinate.  If you plan to use a weed and feed fertilizer, look for one that offers a pre-emergent and post emergent herbicide.  Applying a pre and post emergent herbicide before the grass is too high will kill any existing weeds, including crabgrass, while they are still small.  Never cut more than one third of the blade each time, so for overlong grass, mow once on a high setting, then a second time to the correct length. 

Root systems need water to sustain the lawn, so water regularly but deeply.  Lawns need 1” of water per week.  This may come as rain, but often will need to be provided by the homeowner. To calibrate overhead watering systems, place a container within range of the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill to 1”. 

Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers uses a patented timed release nitrogen technology developed for and used by championship golf courses.  One application of fertilizer in the spring and one application in fall provides a complete annual feeding program.

Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer with weed control is a proprietary product that combines both a crabgrass preventer (pre-emergent herbicide) with a broadleaf weed control (post-emergent herbicide) with the university recommended amount of slow release nitrogen.

Check Out Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.

Posted on February 12, 2006 in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Q&A | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns

February 05, 2006

DIY Lawn Care

Lawn_3Do you feel as though your lawn is taking control of your weekends? For many homeowners the ritual of mowing and fertilizing cycles takes over, so they contract with a commercial company to take over the treatments, leaving the homeowner just to do the mowing.  This may seem like a straight forward solution, but for any service, you have to pay a hefty price.  Most services require a full year contract and will treat the lawn every month.  Many do-it-yourself lawn care programs also advocate a monthly treatment which takes time and money.  Greenview prefers that you have your weekends to yourself for fun.  They created a system whereby the slow release of chemicals requires only two applications of fertilizer for the entire growing season.

Click here to learn more about the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan.

When the Greenview Fairway Formula treatment is applied at the correct time, weeds are suppressed and the lawn is given a boost to encourage lush spring growth.  The growth though is not excessive because the slow release nutrients are timed to enter the soil at a slower rate. Further fertilization is not needed.  A subscription plan will allow your fertilizer to be shipped direct to your home at the optimum time for your area.  No waiting in line at the local hardware store when everyone else realizes that they need lawn care treatments. No confusion about when you should put down the treatment. The best treatment for your specific area also includes treatments especially formulated for those in a phosphate free region. 

Greenview also offers flexibility. Whether you need just a fertilizer, or you need to fertilize and kill weeds, Greenview has a suitable product for your lawn, and it is dispatched at just the right time.

See What People are Saying About Their Results Using Greenview Products!

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.

Posted on February 5, 2006 in Fertilizer, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control

January 29, 2006

How to Do a Soil Test

Plants require certain nutrients to thrive, and unless the pH of the soil is at the correct level, the plant cannot absorb these nutrients. A soil test establishes these levels. The most common chemicals tested for in a soil test include calcium, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, as well as pH.  It is important for the homeowner to assess these levels prior to developing a fertilization regime.  The test results will let you know how much lime, nitrogen and other nutrients your lawn or garden requires. 

To take a soil test you need to dig appropriate samples of the soil.  For a lawn area this is under the turf, to a depth of about 6 inches.  Sample several areas of the lawn and mix them together in a clean plastic or glass container, before transferring the sample to a bag or box, as required by the laboratory. Total sample should be around one cup in volume. For accurate tests, avoid areas that may be contaminated such as a driveway or road that is salted, or compost piles.  Allow excessively moist samples to air dry before testing or packing.  Do tests for each area of the garden where you intend to grow different things such as azaleas, herbs, tomatoes and lawn, all of which require slightly different fertilizers and amendments.  The Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension is a part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  Extension offices are located in most states, and will provide information regarding where to send soil samples for testing and the cost (generally under $25).  For a list of State Cooperative Extension Agencies, refer to this url: State Cooperative Extension Agencies.

Home tests kits are also available to test pH and a limited number of nutrients.  Prepare the sample for these tests in the same way as for laboratory testing, but follow the instructions for specific needs.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com

Posted on January 29, 2006 in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack

in Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Q&A

January 23, 2006

How to Select the Right Grass Seed for Your Lawn

One of the most important factors in selecting grass seed for your lawn is to decide which species (or mix of species) best fits your climate, site use, and intended maintenance level   This is important whether you are deciding on the initial selection for new home lawns, atheletic fields or commercial sites; or for overseeding or renovating your existing turf to add newer improved varieties to the turfgrass population.

Turfgrass breeders make improvements in varieties every year, some also do research and try to find the newest, most cutting edge varieties available. The cost of the seed is a very small portion of the total cost of any seeding job, so choose the best seed varieties available that fit your site requirements. You have to live with the turfgrass variety decision for years, so it makes sense to buy the best varieties available.

Your research is made a little easier by utilizing the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). This program establishes tests at University sites across the US and Canada and publishes unbiased rankings on the web site www.ntep.org. You can find out which varieties of a particular species ranked the highest nationally and at locations near you. This is a good starting point. Also, talk with your local seed suppliers about which varieties perform well in your area. As the NTEP tests operate on a five - year rotation, be sure to ask about newly released varieties that may be available, especially if they are in the later years of that species NTEP test rotation. Great improvements can be made during that time and data from research universities may be available for these new varieties. 

The following will focus on cool season species because they are all available as seed. Warm season species are primarily available vegetatively – i.e. Sod or stolons. Cool season species are most widely adapted in the northern two-thirds of the United States. The middle third of the country is called the transition zone – where both warm season and cool season species are grown. Each of the most popular cool season species has unique characteristics and are covered below.

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky Bluegrass is a widely adapted species that is used for many situations. Its dark green color and medium fine texture contributes to it sometimes being called the king of lawn grasses. Kentucky bluegrass is able to spread and recover because it grows by underground primary lateral stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes grow out from the main plant and form a new plant, allowing it to form a dense cover. Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice for athletic fields, home lawns, and golf courses. For high quality turf, Kentucky bluegrass should receive medium to high maintenance. 

Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass has a non-spreading, bunch type growth habit.  It germinates and  establishes quickly. It has a dark green color, medium fine texture, and good mowing characteristics. Perennial ryegrass may be seeded alone or in mixtures with other species.

Tall Fescue

Tall fescue is another bunch type grass that persists in the warmer areas of the cool season range of adaptation. This is primarily due to the fact that it has a deep root system, which helps it be more heat and drought tolerant. Plant breeders have made great improvements in this species over the last decade. The newer varieties are as dark green and almost as fine textured as the improved Kentucky bluegrass varieties. It does not tolerate as close a mowing height as Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, so a mowing height of 1.5 –3 inches is recommended.   Tall fescue requires slightly less water and fertilizer to produce a high quality turf stand.

Fine Fescue

Creeping red fescue is the most widely used of the three main fine leafed fescues. It has slow spreading rhizomes. Chewings fescue and Hard fescue have a bunch –type growth habit. All have a fine leaf texture. They are particularly well adapted to dry, shady conditions as well as low maintenance situations. The fine fescues are primarily used in mixes with other species like Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass

Whichever species you choose, always try to choose the best varieties available at the time with superior genetics that have improved disease and insect resistance, and drought tolerance, and that will fit your long-term management plans.

For information on Greenview’s highly rated turfgrass varieties in the Greenview Fairway Formula line of seed mixes and blends, please visit: www.greenviewfertilizer.com.

Posted on January 23, 2006 in Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Q&A | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack

in Gardening, Hear From The Experts, New Lawns, Plants

October 21, 2005

Fall Planting Tips

                                                                                                                                           
Greenview_fall_header

Late fall or early winter is a great time to plant trees and shrubs, many of which will be on sale at area nurseries and garden centers.

As long as the ground is not frozen, you can plant container-grown trees and shrubs, nursery stock that is balled-and-burlapped, or transplant woody plants from one spot in your landscape to another.

Planting container or balled-and-burlapped stock:

When planting container or balled-and-burlapped stock, dig the hole at least twice as wide as the root ball.  The hole should not be any deeper than the height of the root ball.  If you err, do so on the high side.  Planting trees or shrubs too deep causes them to rot and eventually fall over.

Backfill the hole with the soil that came from the site.  Amending the soil with peat moss, fertilizers, compost or other matter is not recommended.  Use your foot to tamp down the soil around the new plant.  Water well.

Continue to supplement rainfall, as needed, to ensure the new plant gets about an inch of water every week until the ground freezes.

Transplanting shrubs and trees:

When transplanting a shrub or tree in your landscape, it's best for the plant to be dormant.  Usually once a plant has dropped it's leaves, it is dormant.

Prepare the new planting site before digging the plant.  Again, the hole should be about twice the width of the root ball and about the same depth as the plant was growing in it's old site.

Use a sharp spade or shovel when digging the plant, trying to lift as much of the root ball as possible.  Move to the new site as soon as possible so the roots won't dry out.  If you are delayed in the planting process, cover the root ball with moistened newspapers or cloth.  Again, no need to amend the soil.  Finish the planting as described above.

Plant Bulbs now to brighten the landscape   Gv_bulbs

When planting or transplanting trees and shrubs this fall, add a few spring flowering bulbs to the landscape.  Find a spot and plant daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and other spring flowering bulbs.  You'll be glad you did when they brighten the landscape next spring.

Posted on October 21, 2005 in Gardening, Hear From The Experts, New Lawns, Plants | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawns, New Lawns

September 21, 2005

Ten Steps in Lawn Care

Logo22_4Fall is a great time to start a new lawn.  The Lawn Institute provides Ten Steps in Growing a Healthy New Lawn:

Step 1. Test the Soil: determine what nutrients your soil needs and so you know what fertilizer will best suit your lawn.

Step 2. Control Weeds: Most annual weeds can be controlled by tilling the soil. A potential problem is the perennial weeds that are capable of regrowing, even though the top parts may have been removed.

Step 3. Prepare the Soil: Your soil test results will indicate if fertilizer is needed and at what rate. Here is a list of GreenView fertilizers.

Step 4. Till the Soil: Tilling does several things. It works the fertilizer and the pH control materials into the soil. It helps the new grass roots grow into the soil and it makes the soil easier to smooth out and make level.

Step 5. Rake: Use a garden-type rake to remove any rocks and debris that the tiller has brought to the surface. This also is the last chance to work on contouring and low spots

Step 6. Apply Seed: Buy the best quality seed available. Here's the GreenView list of top quality seeds.  You will also want to apply a mulch over top the seeds to help keep it from drying out too quickly.  Straw is commonly used, however, not recommended as it can be a source of weed seeds which will germinate along with your grass seeds.  An alternative to consider is GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator, a biodegradable material that will keep seeds moist and protected till they are established.  An added benefit is the material does not need to be taken up once the plant is established.

Step 7. Water: The newly seeded or sprigged lawn must be kept moist, NOT saturated.

Step 8. Mow: As the new lawn grows, it will be necessary to mow. Set the mower for the recommended height of your grass variety.

Step 9. Fertilize: When the seeded lawn is 6 to 8 weeks old, it's time for the first application of fertilizer.

Step 10. Control Weeds: All newly seeded lawns will have unwanted weeds, most of which came from the soil and if a straw mulch. Annual weeds should be controlled by mowing.

Posted on September 21, 2005 in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns

September 20, 2005

Eight Steps for Seeding Success

Tips_7 If your lawn is looking thin and stressed from a summer of abuse from the weather and heavy use, Fall is the perfect time to reseed, overseed and plant new grass.  Here's an eight-step plan that can help you achieve the lawn you've always wanted.

  1. Select high quality grass seed to match your current lawn and growing conditions.
  2. Loosen the soil surface in order to provide a place for the seed to nest.
  3. Sprinkle the grass seed on the soil. Direct contact is critical for fast seed germination and plant establishment.
  4. Apply planting mulch like our GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator over the seed.  (Don't use straw as it tends to include weed seeds which will germinate along with the grass seed.)
  5. Water in thoroughly, keeping the soil surface moist to speed up germination.
  6. Mow the lawn twice after new seeds have germinated.
  7. Apply fertilizer to enrich the lawn
  8. Enjoy your lush, green lawn!

Posted on September 20, 2005 in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns

September 11, 2005

Fall is Prime Time for Renovating Lawns

Fall_fert_1 The cooler temperatures and adequate soil moisture that come with fall make September and early October the best months to renovate an existing lawn, especially in the Midwest and East.

Whether seeding bare spots or overseeding an existing lawn, preparation of the area is critical to success.  Here are some tips:

  • Take a soil sample to learn the nutrient values of your soil.  This is particularly critical for new lawns or major renovations of lawns.  The information will determine what additives to use.  For information about soil testing, contact your county extension office.
  • Mow the grass as short as possible.  Loosen the top 1/4 inch of soil with a rake.  Clear the area of grass, weeds, twigs, rocks, soil lumps and other debris.  Smooth out the soil.
  • Buy the best lawn seed you can afford, such as GreenView Fairway Formula Grass Seed.  This is not the time to be frugal.  The garden cetner or retailer where you buy your seed will be able to guide you in the type, mix and rate of application and any equipment needed.
  • Sow the seed by hand for small areas and with a spreader for larger spaces.
  • Lightly rake the seeded areas and gently tamp the seed to the soil to ensure good contact.
  • Apply a starter fertilizer, such as GreenView Grass Seed Accelerator, a biodegradable product that helps the soil retain moisture and fertilizes seedlings.  This product eliminates the need to add straw or other mulch, thereby reducing or eliminating the introduction of weeds in newly seeded lawns.
  • It is imperative that the seeded beds be kept moist, but not wet, until the grass has been mowed once.  That means watering at least once a day.  Once the grass gets about 2 inches tall, you can start to cut back on watering.
  • Mow when the new growth reaches 4 inches.  Mow to a 3 inch height.

For more Landscape Tips for the Fall Season sign up for the Preen Newsletter.

Preen and GreenView are products of the Lebanon Seaboard Corporation.

Posted on September 11, 2005 in Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack

in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Greenview Diary, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Watering

April 26, 2005

Mother's Day - The Perfect Gift!

You may think I am crazy, but what would be a perfect gift for Mother's Day other than something that could be enjoyed all year long? A PERFECT LAWN !!!!

Now think about it, every time she walks outside, the grass is thick and green with no weeds or crabgrass. This is the gift that keeps on giving! Does she more jewelry? How long will flowers last? (Mothers expect flowers. So flowers are still a good idea - lol.) But seriously, this is a gift that will last year round!

Now I would not recommend wrapping this gift up. Give her a card with a note...I will let you write that!

Order online today and have Greenview Fertilizer delivered to your door or use the store locator to find a dealer near you!

Posted on April 26, 2005 in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Greenview Diary, Hear From The Experts, Inside Greenview, Lawn Care, Lawns, Mowing, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Watering | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack