The Green View

What about the grass clippings?

If you mow regularly and don't have large piles of grass clippings, it is best to leave them on the lawn.  The clippings return nutrients and organic matter to the soil as they break down.  A big misconception about leaving the lawn clippings in the yard is that they attribute to thatch.  Thatch is a layer of decaying plant matter that accumulates at the surface of the soil, but grass clippings (if not left on the lawn in excess) break down quickly and are healthy for your lawn.

Large piles of grass clippings are not healthy because they can clump together and mat down the grass blocking sunlight which will cause yellow spots and increase the chance of disease.

Lawn Thatch How-To

What is lawn thatch?

Thatch is a dense layer of decaying plant matter that accumulates at the surface of the soil.  A small layer of thatch is acceptable because it helps retain moisture and prevent soil compaction.  But when thatch becomes too thick it prevents fertilizer and water from reaching the roots of the grass making them weak.  This build-up of decomposing matter causes your lawn to be more prone to diseases, weeds, thinning, and less tolerant to harsh weather conditions.

How do I check for lawn thatch?

Checking your lawn for thatch is easy.  Cut out a section of your lawn and measure the thatch build-up near the top.  The recommended amount of thatch, which is healthy for your grass, is between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.

How do I prevent thatch?

Do not apply too much quick release nitrogen fertilizer and do not water your lawn lightly and frequently.  Both of these lawn care practices allow your lawn to grow excessively fast and causes more thatch build-up.  Watering your grass lightly and frequently causes the grass to root near the surface in the thatch.  If you water deeply but infrequently this allows the grass roots to grow deeper into the soil allowing a healthier and stronger root system for your lawn.  Using Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers can also help you prevent lawn thatch!

Also a common myth to thatch build-up is from grass clippings left on the lawn after mowing.  This, however, is totally untrue.  These clippings add nutrients to the soil and decompose quickly, so you wont have to go the extra mile to bag them up.

How do I de-thatch my lawn?

The time to de-thatch is before the grass's prime growing season, usually during spring or in early fall.  Manually de-thatching your lawn is the process of raking through the lawn, which can be rather time consuming, but it is less stressing on your lawn than using a power de-thatcher.  Manual de-thatching is suggested for small to medium size lawns with about an inch of thatch.  For larger lawns or if you have a greater amount of thatch, you can rent a power de-thatcher of hire someone to do it for you.  This process may cause your lawn to look rather messy, but it will recover in no time with the growing season right ahead.  Lastly, always make sure that you rake up all debris and thatch when you are finished.

Organic Fertilizers

Is an organic fertilizer safer for the environment?

While organic fertilizers tend to contain very low amounts of nitrogen (3% vs 25-30% for chemical fertilizers), nitrogen is a critical nutrient for the growth of healthy, thick turf.  Even though lower nutrient loading in the soil is good from an environmental perspective, organic fertilizers release the nutrients immediately and rain can wash them away with the ground water, leaving the grass plant starved for nutrients. 

As the benefits of an organic fertilizer often go unnoticed, homeowners will spread multiple applications of organic fertilizers to generate a response.  Organic fertilizer and multiple applications is costly, time consuming and not environmentally friendly.  Homeowners may think using an organic fertilizer is beneficial, but it will have very little impact on the grass plant.

We believe there is a better way - and that is by using a slow release fertilizer that provides nutrients slowly over an extended period of time.  And because of the slow release technology in Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers - the nitrogen nutrient will not be washed away with the first rain.

Learn how to get the benefits of organic fertilizer - and better results.

Lawn Care 101 - Tips for Growing Grass

When grass is coming out of dormancy in the spring, the tendency is to feed heavily creating an instant green lawn.  However, heavy feeding creates excess top growth at the expense of the root system.  Consequently, although you mow often to keep the lawn in shape, the grass cannot put energy into the roots so that it can survive the heat of the summer.  When choosing a fertilizer this spring, look for a slow release fertilizer.  Slow release fertilizers provide a controlled release of the nitrogen nutrients so the grass does not get that sudden influx of high nitrogen. A slow release nitrogen fertilizer yeilds benefits to the grass plant and prevents the release of excess nitrogen that can contaminate the area watershed.

With grass growing at a healthy, rather than excessive rate, you can concentrate on correct mowing of the lawn.  Before you start mowing make sure that your mower has clean, sharp blades.  Cut the grass blades to 4”-6”.   This depth will allow the roots to stay cool and moist by creating a barrier between airborne seeds and the ground so weeds cannot germinate.  If you plan to use a weed and feed fertilizer, look for one that offers a pre-emergent and post emergent herbicide.  Applying a pre and post emergent herbicide before the grass is too high will kill any existing weeds, including crabgrass, while they are still small.  Never cut more than one third of the blade each time, so for overlong grass, mow once on a high setting, then a second time to the correct length. 

Root systems need water to sustain the lawn, so water regularly but deeply.  Lawns need 1” of water per week.  This may come as rain, but often will need to be provided by the homeowner. To calibrate overhead watering systems, place a container within range of the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill to 1”. 

Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers uses a patented timed release nitrogen technology developed for and used by championship golf courses.  One application of fertilizer in the spring and one application in fall provides a complete annual feeding program.

Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer with weed control is a proprietary product that combines both a crabgrass preventer (pre-emergent herbicide) with a broadleaf weed control (post-emergent herbicide) with the university recommended amount of slow release nitrogen.

Check Out Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.

How to Do a Soil Test

Plants require certain nutrients to thrive, and unless the pH of the soil is at the correct level, the plant cannot absorb these nutrients. A soil test establishes these levels. The most common chemicals tested for in a soil test include calcium, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, as well as pH.  It is important for the homeowner to assess these levels prior to developing a fertilization regime.  The test results will let you know how much lime, nitrogen and other nutrients your lawn or garden requires. 

To take a soil test you need to dig appropriate samples of the soil.  For a lawn area this is under the turf, to a depth of about 6 inches.  Sample several areas of the lawn and mix them together in a clean plastic or glass container, before transferring the sample to a bag or box, as required by the laboratory. Total sample should be around one cup in volume. For accurate tests, avoid areas that may be contaminated such as a driveway or road that is salted, or compost piles.  Allow excessively moist samples to air dry before testing or packing.  Do tests for each area of the garden where you intend to grow different things such as azaleas, herbs, tomatoes and lawn, all of which require slightly different fertilizers and amendments.  The Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension is a part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  Extension offices are located in most states, and will provide information regarding where to send soil samples for testing and the cost (generally under $25).  For a list of State Cooperative Extension Agencies, refer to this url: State Cooperative Extension Agencies.

Home tests kits are also available to test pH and a limited number of nutrients.  Prepare the sample for these tests in the same way as for laboratory testing, but follow the instructions for specific needs.

Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com

How to Select the Right Grass Seed for Your Lawn

One of the most important factors in selecting grass seed for your lawn is to decide which species (or mix of species) best fits your climate, site use, and intended maintenance level   This is important whether you are deciding on the initial selection for new home lawns, atheletic fields or commercial sites; or for overseeding or renovating your existing turf to add newer improved varieties to the turfgrass population.

Turfgrass breeders make improvements in varieties every year, some also do research and try to find the newest, most cutting edge varieties available. The cost of the seed is a very small portion of the total cost of any seeding job, so choose the best seed varieties available that fit your site requirements. You have to live with the turfgrass variety decision for years, so it makes sense to buy the best varieties available.

Your research is made a little easier by utilizing the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). This program establishes tests at University sites across the US and Canada and publishes unbiased rankings on the web site www.ntep.org. You can find out which varieties of a particular species ranked the highest nationally and at locations near you. This is a good starting point. Also, talk with your local seed suppliers about which varieties perform well in your area. As the NTEP tests operate on a five - year rotation, be sure to ask about newly released varieties that may be available, especially if they are in the later years of that species NTEP test rotation. Great improvements can be made during that time and data from research universities may be available for these new varieties. 

The following will focus on cool season species because they are all available as seed. Warm season species are primarily available vegetatively – i.e. Sod or stolons. Cool season species are most widely adapted in the northern two-thirds of the United States. The middle third of the country is called the transition zone – where both warm season and cool season species are grown. Each of the most popular cool season species has unique characteristics and are covered below.

Lawn Tips for Late Fall

Did you know that Lawn Grasses are the Last Plants to go Dormant in Fall?

While trees and shrubs may be losing their leaves, at least one plant in the landscape is still growing. Click here to learn more!

Cool season lawn grasses develop their underground root systems in fall and store nutrients that will carry them through winter.  A healthy, well-fed underground root system is what keeps your lawn green later in the season and makes it one of the first ones to green up in spring.

But it's not just any lawn fertilizer that will do the trick.  A top quality, slow-release nitrogen fertilizer formulated for fall application is the magic ingredient.  A late fall fertilization program also is recommended by county extension agents throughout the country.

The specially formulated, fall fertilizer application promotes underground root development but not top growth.  (Quick release nitrogen fertilizers rapidly green up the lawn and encourage top growth, which increases the need for mowing.)

GreenView Fairway Formula Late Fall Fertilizer contains the slow-release nitrogen recommended for this time of year.  Best applied in November before the ground freezes, GreenView Fairway Formula Late Fall Fertilizer helps lawns recover from summer wear and tear while boosting root development and feeding the grass for up to 16 weeks with a slow-release, nitrogen designed for cool weather. 

This booster application prepares lawns and their roots for winter weather and allows for a quicker green-up in spring.  The result is a beautiful lawn all season long.

To Order GreenView Fairway Formula Late Fall Fertilizer, simply visit GreenView Online today!

While you are there, check out what experts everywhere are using on their lawns.  GreenView offers the best lawn products, in a subscription program, where the best products are delivered to your door, when it is the right time for you to apply them.  Learn how to have the BEST lawn in the neighborhood through the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan.

De-Thatching (Yin and Yang of Lawn Care)

What is De-thatching?

De-thatching is one of the most overlooked tasks in lawn care and lawn maintenance. The thatch layer is made up of brown decaying plant matter just above the soil which builds up and prevents nutrients and moisture from reaching turf roots. This layer is also a friendly environment for fungus to grow. Even though thatch is regarded as a detriment to a healthy lawn it also has positive qualities in that thatch can prevent weeds from geminating, hold in moisture and protect grass from frost damage. There is a general rule that more than ½ inch of thatch is not beneficial so keeping an eye on thatch thickness is very important.

De-thatching - A Timely Task

The best time to de-thatch a lawn is in late spring and early fall when grass growth is most active as it can bounce back from stress more quickly.  As mentioned above a thin layer of thatch can protect against frost damage so if you see frost, it is better to refrain from de-thatching your lawn.  If you forget to de-thatch your lawn in late spring do not do so during mid summer because you are removing the protective layer that is often needed for soil water retention during times when mild drought conditions are present.  You also want to avoid de-thatching when weeds are germinating, this can cause an explosion of weeds you didn’t even know existed.  De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.

De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.

To determine the depth of thatch you can cut a small square of sod out of your lawn and measure the depth of the thatch, but most people just pull aside their grass and estimate the thatch thickness.  Some lawn care experts can determine how much thatch is underfoot by the feel of the bounce of their step on a lawn. 

How to De-thatch

The best way to de-thatch a small lawn is with a thatching rake which has thick blades designed to pull thatch out of turf without pulling up the grass itself.  For larger lawns rent or buy a vertical mower (a.k.a. de-thatcher) which has rotating blades that scrape, cut and remove thatch from turf.

DO NOT de-thatch a lawn and leave it bare, follow up with lawn aeration, fertilizing and watering to support the lawn during its growth cycle.

I see thatch as the yin and yang of lawn care and lawn maintenance.  If you have too little thatch at the wrong time of year, weeds will germinate and lawns can either burn or freeze depending on the conditions.  It is smart to write down de-thatching times and take this task very seriously, if you do so you are going to be rewarded with balance in the form of a greatly improved turf.

Article provided by Aaron Pratt who has his own website dedicated to the subject of

  Lawn Care and Lawn Maintenance.

Moles Infesting the Lawn

Moles are tunneling underground, and my lawn is being ruined. How can I get rid of the moles?

There are several ways of dealing with the pesky little critters. These include:

• Kill traps (must be set in active tunnel; difficult to set correctly).
• Castor bean-based repellents (e.g. "Scoot-Mole"®). (Follow label directions. These are often quite effective, but must be re-applied after heavy rain).
• Fumigation ("smoke bombs" readily available, but difficult to set properly, and rarely succeed at full control. More toxic fumigants are potentially dangerous and require license to use).
• Toxic chemicals (insecticides) to reduce mole food supply (insects and larvae, esp. "grubs"). (Poor solution; many insecticides are harmful to people, pets, and wildlife. Moles eat more than grubs—such as worms, slugs, small vertebrates not controlled by insecticides at normal application).
• Rolling lawn, direct killing of observed "working" moles. (Sometimes effective but very time consuming!)

For more on the humble, but pesky little mole, check out the Wildlife & Natural History Q-Line.

Waiting Period to Sow Grass Seed

QUESTION/COMMENT: How long should I wait after applying spring fertilizer to reseed barespots?

ANSWER: There is no waiting period to sow grass seed with Greenview Fairway Formula Spring 26-4-12 Fertilizer.