in Lawn Care, Weeds/Weed Control
May 28, 2008
What Grows Like A Weed?
If it looks like a weed, smells like a weed, and grows like a weed, it’s probably a WEED!
My favorite weed is called “Creeping Charlie.” It boasts such a pretty lavender flower, but oh does that vine spread! I once spent an hour on my hands and knees pulling them out—not a pretty picture for passers-by. Let’s face it, we all find weeds in our lawns and gardens at least some of the time. But the healthier your lawn is, the easier it will be to combat weeds. How do you keep your lawn healthy? First, you select the right lawn grasses for your climate zone and sun exposure, then you choose the right fertilizer and lime (depending on your soil test results), de-thatch and aerate if needed, and lastly, you mow and water.
The absolute best weed preventative is to follow a good lawn maintenance schedule. Using the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan takes the guesswork out of it for you, and will result in a spring lawn that’s weed-free. Just one application of Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer 24-2-8 addresses two lawn spoilers: weeds and crabgrass. And believe me…it’s much easier to prevent the weeds from growing in the first place, rather than having to battle them once their roots have well…taken root deep into the soil!
If your lawn is rather thin lawn and struggling to survive, you may find that good old favorite, the
dandelion, invading your lawn here, there and everywhere!
What are the most common lawn weeds?
Well there’s the annual broadleaf weed, like chickweed and knotweed that form a tough mat. Then you have your perennial broadleaf weeds, like dandelions, violets, and ground ivy. Then there are your annual and perennial grassy weeds like crabgrass and foxtail with fuzzy seed heads. There are dozens more, but these are some of the most common.
So don’t wait until the dandelions turn to puff balls and start spreading their seeds all over your lawn. Spring Fertilizer Weed and Feed with Crabgrass Preventer provides both: a slow release nitrogen that fertilizes your lawn up to 12 weeks with controlled, steady nutrition over a longer period of time, and it prevents crabgrass and kills dandelions, clover, viney weeds and over 200 other broadleaf weeds as it fertilizes. There’s no excess growth, you mow less, and you get a healthier, greener, weed-free lawn!
So rise up from your knees and smell the roses instead of the weeds!
Content courtesy of the University of Wisconsin. Pictures courtesy of Love to Know and University of Wisconsin.
Submitted by J. Weinmann
Posted on May 28, 2008 in Lawn Care, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack
in Weeds/Weed Control
April 09, 2007
Crabgrass Prevention
Just a heads-up to the procrastinators, it's not too late to prevent ugly crabgrass, dandelions too. Greenview Fairway Formula Spring lawn products can be applied anytime through late-spring and still be effective in killing weeds in your lawn.
The Greenview fertilizer combines several weed control products so that one application prevents crabgrass and kills broadleaf weeds. The special crabgrass preventer used by Greenview can be applied up to 4 weeks later than other crabgrass preventers as well.
Stop by the Greenview Online Store today and order your spring fertilizer for home delivery. Shopping for fertilizer just got a whole lot easier!
Posted on April 9, 2007 in Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Lawn Care, Lawns, Weeds/Weed Control
March 19, 2006
Weed and Feed
Many years ago, lawns were fed with manure from the farm and weeds were tolerated or hand pulled. Manure was spread in the fall and allowed to decompose over the winter releasing nitrogen into the soil. This replaced depleted nitrogen in the soil and thus encouraged a burst of fresh green growth on the lawn. If the manure was applied when it was too fresh, it could burn the lawn; if applied too late in the spring when there was no rain or snowfall then it could not decompose effectively. Today we have modern fertilizers such as Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers that replace the manure and supply nitrogen to the lawn in a more effective way.
If your lawn contains weeds, you will need fertilizer and a herbicide, often called "weed & feed" to eliminate the weeds. Weeds germinate in the spring when the soil warms up and perennial weeds begin their new growth cycle. Most lawn weeds such as dandelions, clover and thistles are classified as ‘Broad Leaf’ weeds. This enables them to be selectively treated without harming the grass blades. The weeds need to be actively growing to be successfully treated.
Crabgrass is slightly later to emerge than most broad leaf weeds, but crabgrass is an annual and can be treated with a pre emergent herbicide which will prevent the crabgrass weed seeds from germination. Remember not to put Crabgrass Preventer down when you have just seeded the lawn, as it will prevent the germination of the grass seed.
By combining the broadleaf weed killer with a pre emergent crabgrass treatment along with the fertilizer such as in Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer, you only need to make one application of the product. Timing for a combined product is important, so you need to keep a careful eye on your garden and the weather so that you are able to ascertain when the majority of the weeds, but not crabgrass, are up and growing. Alternatively you can let Greenview keep an eye on the weather and let them gauge when conditions are right for application of the products. And while most of your neighbors are watching the sky and running to the store to fetch their heavy bags of fertilizer and weed treatments, yours can be delivered by Greenview right to your garage door at the right time.
Learn more about the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan.
Author Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.
Posted on March 19, 2006 in Fertilizer, Lawn Care, Lawns, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Lawn Care, Lawns, Weeds/Weed Control
February 19, 2006
Spring Weed Control
Spring is a delightful time. Alas, along with the coveted perennials, we might find some not so pleasant things emerging too – weeds! Some of these weeds are perennial; others are annuals germinating from last years’ seed. What you decide to put on the lawn to eradicate these weeds depends on what they are and when you plan to apply the product.
To prevent weed seeds that were sown last fall from germinating, consider using a combination product this spring that contains fertilizer with a pre-emergent herbicide such as Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer with Crabgrass Preventer. This product should be put onto the lawn in early spring to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Do not use a pre-emergent if you plan on over-seeding or patching your lawn because the grass seed, like the weed seed, will not germinate in the presence of a pre-emergent treatment. Remember that correct mowing heights and a healthy lawn, will also make it difficult for weed seeds to reach the ground and germinate.
For seeds that have already germinated, or for perennial weeds, you will need to use a lawn product with a post emergent herbicide for weed control. Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer, works on weeds while they are still small, while also fertilizing the lawn.
Greenview has developed an easy 2 Step program for lawn care, which utilizes advanced nitrogen technologies in the fertilizer while combining the best weed control ingredients in a lawn care product. You can purchase Greenview products at the Greenview Fertilizer website. You will also want to check out the Greenview fertilizer subscription service. Greenview will deliver the right products in spring and fall, to your door at the right time to apply them. See what customers are saying about Greenview:
- "Hi…just wanted to say this year was the first time I used the Spring and Fall GreenView Fairway Formula application on my lawn in Ohio…was delighted with results…better than Scotts…thanks…"
- "As I've said in the past emails to your company…your product is truly outstanding and I've been using it for as long as I can remember, 10 yrs maybe?…Thanks for your time and an awesome product!!!"
Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com.
Posted on February 19, 2006 in Fertilizer, Lawn Care, Lawns, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack
in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control
January 29, 2006
How to Do a Soil Test
Plants require certain nutrients to thrive, and unless the pH of the soil is at the correct level, the plant cannot absorb these nutrients. A soil test establishes these levels. The most common chemicals tested for in a soil test include calcium, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, as well as pH. It is important for the homeowner to assess these levels prior to developing a fertilization regime. The test results will let you know how much lime, nitrogen and other nutrients your lawn or garden requires.
To take a soil test you need to dig appropriate samples of the soil. For a lawn area this is under the turf, to a depth of about 6 inches. Sample several areas of the lawn and mix them together in a clean plastic or glass container, before transferring the sample to a bag or box, as required by the laboratory. Total sample should be around one cup in volume. For accurate tests, avoid areas that may be contaminated such as a driveway or road that is salted, or compost piles. Allow excessively moist samples to air dry before testing or packing. Do tests for each area of the garden where you intend to grow different things such as azaleas, herbs, tomatoes and lawn, all of which require slightly different fertilizers and amendments. The Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension is a part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Extension offices are located in most states, and will provide information regarding where to send soil samples for testing and the cost (generally under $25). For a list of State Cooperative Extension Agencies, refer to this url: State Cooperative Extension Agencies.
Home tests kits are also available to test pH and a limited number of nutrients. Prepare the sample for these tests in the same way as for laboratory testing, but follow the instructions for specific needs.
Author - Kate Copsey can be reached at KTCopsey@aol.com
Posted on January 29, 2006 in Fertilizer, Gardening, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, New Lawns, Plants, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack
in Disease/Insect Control, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control
September 27, 2005
De-Thatching (Yin and Yang of Lawn Care)
What is De-thatching?
De-thatching is one of the most overlooked tasks in lawn care and lawn maintenance. The thatch layer is made up of brown decaying plant matter just above the soil which builds up and prevents nutrients and moisture from reaching turf roots. This layer is also a friendly environment for fungus to grow. Even though thatch is regarded as a detriment to a healthy lawn it also has positive qualities in that thatch can prevent weeds from geminating, hold in moisture and protect grass from frost damage. There is a general rule that more than ½ inch of thatch is not beneficial so keeping an eye on thatch thickness is very important.
De-thatching - A Timely Task
The best time to de-thatch a lawn is in late spring and early fall when grass growth is most active as it can bounce back from stress more quickly. As mentioned above a thin layer of thatch can protect against frost damage so if you see frost, it is better to refrain from de-thatching your lawn. If you forget to de-thatch your lawn in late spring do not do so during mid summer because you are removing the protective layer that is often needed for soil water retention during times when mild drought conditions are present. You also want to avoid de-thatching when weeds are germinating, this can cause an explosion of weeds you didn’t even know existed. De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.
De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.
To determine the depth of thatch you can cut a small square of sod out of your lawn and measure the depth of the thatch, but most people just pull aside their grass and estimate the thatch thickness. Some lawn care experts can determine how much thatch is underfoot by the feel of the bounce of their step on a lawn.
How to De-thatch
The best way to de-thatch a small lawn is with a thatching rake which has thick blades designed to pull thatch out of turf without pulling up the grass itself. For larger lawns rent or buy a vertical mower (a.k.a. de-thatcher) which has rotating blades that scrape, cut and remove thatch from turf.
DO NOT de-thatch a lawn and leave it bare, follow up with lawn aeration, fertilizing and watering to support the lawn during its growth cycle.
I see thatch as the yin and yang of lawn care and lawn maintenance. If you have too little thatch at the wrong time of year, weeds will germinate and lawns can either burn or freeze depending on the conditions. It is smart to write down de-thatching times and take this task very seriously, if you do so you are going to be rewarded with balance in the form of a greatly improved turf.
Article provided by Aaron Pratt who has his own website dedicated to the subject of
Lawn Care and Lawn Maintenance.
Posted on September 27, 2005 in Disease/Insect Control, Fertilizer, Grass Seed, Hear From The Experts, Lawn Care, Lawns, Q&A, Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Weeds/Weed Control
September 08, 2005
Eliminate Crabgrass in Your Yard
As a member of the GreenView customer service team, I hear daily from customers looking for solutions to their crabgrass and weed problems. With the end of the summer season upon us, it is likely that you too are irritated by the unsightly presence of crabgrass and other weeds in your lawn.
"Growing a thick and healthy lawn is one of the best ways to reduce weeds. The secret to eliminating crabgrass, is to grow a thick, dense lawn which will shade the weed seeds, effectively inhibiting germination. No weed seed germination….No weeds."
There are steps you can take right now, this Fall, to help eliminate weeds in your lawn. To build a healthy, dense lawn with deep root systems, you must start with an application of Fall fertilizer. Agronomists and university experts across the country advocate a Fall application of slow release Nitrogen fertilizer to build the root system of the lawn and control broadleaf weeds from gaining a foothold in the Spring.
It is now time to apply a Fall Fertilizer for most Zones in the US.
For our GreenView Online customers who participate in the GreenView Subscription Program (Spring and Fall applications of GreenView Fairway Formula Fertilizer), Fall fertilizer orders are shipping and you will see it on your doorstep at just the right time for you to apply it based upon your Zone.
The next GreenView Fairway Formula weed & feed application is scheduled for Spring, and will be perfectly timed for the zone where you reside. The application of the Spring product, including GreenView Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer, helps to eliminate weeds through the Spring and Summer season while continuing to provide your lawn with needed nutrients. Please visit us at GreenView Online to learn more about the GreenView program and to order your Fall Fertilizer, visit us at: GreenView Online.
As a customer of the GreenView Fertilizer program, you will have access to professional quality GreenView Fairway Formula Fertilizers that contain all of your lawn's weed and feed requirements in just two products: one for Spring and one for Fall. The GreenView Fairway Formula Fertilizers contain a proprietary technology that enables slow release of the nutrients so you can eliminate the 4 step process of other brands, and replace it with 2 applications of premium quality products as used on championship golf courses. You will also have access to a full line of lawn care products ranging from fertilizers to disease, insect and weed control. One of the many benefits you will enjoy through the GreenView program is having the right products for your lawn, delivered right to your door at the right time to apply them.
We are wishing you a great Fall season and look forward to your comments.
The GreenView Online Team
Posted on September 8, 2005 in Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Weeds/Weed Control
June 02, 2005
Profile of a Weed: Knotweed
"Prostrate Knotweed is a summer annual, which forms dense patches. Prostrate knotweed is probably the earliest of the summer annuals to germinate in the spring. Prostrate knotweed is often confused with first-leaf crabgrass. Prostrate knotweed is a prostrate weed that produces a thin tap root and multiple branched stems. Even though knotweed does not root down at the nodes of the stems, a single plant can form a dense mass up to three feet across. Prostrate knotweed tolerates extremely compacted soils and is often found in high traffic areas. The leaves appear alternately on the stems, and differ in the color of green depending on the age of the leaf, with older leaves being a less intense green. The stems will be knotty and have a paper like sheath.
The flowers of knotweed are small pink to white and form in clusters in the leaf axis. Flowers form in late spring. Knotweed spreads by seed. Prostrate knotweed is found throughout North America." Use Preen to prevent.
Information and picture courtesy of weedalert.com.
Posted on June 2, 2005 in Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Weeds/Weed Control
May 31, 2005
Profile of a Weed: Lespedeza
"Common lespedeza is a prostrate growing summer annual. Three oblong, smooth leaflets, all joining on a common petiole, have a prominent mid-vein. Stems are wiry, prostrate and freely branching.
The flowers of common lespedeza are pink to purple and are found in the leaf axils. Lespedeza is commonly found on soils with low fertility. Common lespedeza is found in the southern United States, north to New Jersey and west to Texas and Kansas." Use Preen to Prevent.
Information courtesy of weedalert.com. Photo courtesy of the Virginia Tech Weed Identification Guide.
What to look for: small purplish flowers and small oval fruits.
Structure: prostrate, forming mats up to 18" diameter.
Life cycle: annual.
Leaves: three per node; slender oval.
Flowers: inconspicuous purplish.
Roots: tough taproot.
Look-alikes: some clovers.
Sites: in centipedegrass; thrives in areas where turf is thin.
Growth period: all summer; blooms August through October.
Treatment period: early summer (June) or whenever weed is actively growing.
Posted on May 31, 2005 in Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
in Weeds/Weed Control
May 24, 2005
Profile of a Weed: Parsley Piert
"Parsley-piert is a low growing winter annual. The fan shaped hairy leaves alternate on the stems. The leaves contain three lobes and each lobe is subdivided again into 3 - 4 lobes. The flowers are inconspicuous in the leaf axis. Parsley-piert spreads by seed. Parsley-piert is found from Maryland through Tennessee into Georgia." Use Preen to Prevent.
Information and picture courtesy of weedalert.com.
What to look for: leaves with multiple lobes and cone-shaped bases.
Structure: low growing.
Life Cycle: winter annual.
Leaves: alternate, with cone-shaped, toothed base that encircles stem; leaves have 3 lobes, each of which also has 3 to 4 lobes.
Flowers: inconspicuous, borne opposite stem from upper leaves.
Roots: fibrous.
Look-alikes: spurweed.
Sites: open lawns, usually bermudagrass.
Growth period: blooms from April through June.
Treatment Period: spring, or whenever weed is actively growing.
Posted on May 24, 2005 in Weeds/Weed Control | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack










