The Green View

From Lawn to Landscape...enhancing mother nature's gifts

Your lawn is the canvas; your landscape is the finished work of art. A well-designed landscape can bring you unending pleasure on many levels. Your community enjoys the view, you increase your property’s resale value and the colorful birds of the air seek sanctuary in your yard. The cardinals, chickadees, finches and other birds specific to your locale are feeding in the spring, so be sure to have plenty of Lyric Wild Bird Food on hand. Hours and hours of enjoyment are yours when nature is your entertainment.

So you have a lawn and it’s beautiful. Planting trees, shrubbery and plants around the lawn may seem pretty straightforward. But if you attempt this without a plan, you may end up with less than picture-perfect results.

On the other hand, if you spend some time organizing and laying a design on paper, creating a visual  representation of your property with key yard-house-people relationships in mind, the result can be astounding! Most importantly, you’ll want to organize your plantings and decorations to ensure maximum usefulness as well as aesthetics. Every entrance and exit to your home will be enhanced if the function and decor are properly designed.

Being realistic is also a key to successful landscaping that has long lasting beauty. With the vast array of plants, flowers, trees and decorations available on the market today, it’s easy to overdo it. So keep in mind that you also want to reduce the maintenance of your landscape so that it’s practical. If in your design, you consider the time and resources you have, this will help you enjoy it for years to come without regrets.

Some varieties of plants or other materials in the landscape may take up a great deal of space and leave little room for people, and that’s another great reason why planning is essential---to make your landscape livable. And for your landscape plantings, our line of Woodace Tree, Shrub and Plant fertilizers will keep your new and established floras and evergreens healthy and strong throughout all of their growth stages.

Landscape Design Basics…

Most homeowners are not experienced landscape designers, but the “do-it-yourself-er” and even the amateur gardener can very adequately design their own outdoor environment by following a few important principles:

First, observe and analyze the habits of all who will be using the space, including adults, children and pets. List their needs, desires, and activities. Figure out about how much space each of their activities requires. Also pay careful attention to the view in and around your property and to the ecology of the site, for a “greener” way to landscape.

Recognize that the art of landscaping differs from other forms of art because it grows and changes from season to season. A newly landscaped property will hold a promise of blooms and views to come and may look a bit scant at the start. But with time, each specimen and flower bed will grow to fill its intended space and add a variety of color and texture for every month of the year.

In your plan, consider landscape construction too, where walls, pathways, water features lighting or other accents may add symmetry, depth, drama or just another level of enjoyment. For example, a trellis brimming with vines and flowers can be a welcoming entry or a dramatic exit to a garden or pathway. After all that work, decorating with comfortable benches will be a welcome site for the weary gardener or admiring guest.

Finally, consider landscaping to attract birds. Every species of bird has its own unique food requirements, and these may change as the bird matures and as the seasons change. Plant the trees, shrubs, or flowers that will provide the fruits, berries, grains, seeds, acorns, nuts, or nectar they crave. Want more birds? Position plenty of feeders using our Lyric Wild Bird Food for all four seasons and provide a constant and fresh source of water. A frog pond, water garden, or bird  bath will be most effective if the water is dripping, splashing, or moving. Trees, shrubs, tall grass, and bird houses will provide excellent shelter for the birds and protect them from predators. Include a wide variety of plants in your landscape plan to attract a greater number of bird species that will amaze the avid birder.

Using both Greenview lawn and landscape and Lyric Wild Bird Food products, in concert, will make it easy for you to transform your landscape into a work of art—one that will become more than something to admire. It will be an extension of your living space—a true outdoor adventure where you can appreciate and share the wonders of nature with family and friends throughout the year.

Content courtesy of Texas A&M and Baltimore Bird Club.

Images courtesy of By Design Landscaping, Superior Landscaping Solutions, Bird Watchin and Landscape Design Advice.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

Fertilizing Your Lawn: the "why," "when" and "how"...

Why is the grass always greener on the other side of the fence?  Maybe because your neighbor uses Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer 26-4-12!  The “why,” “when” and “how” of fertilizing your lawn can be confusing, and you may have questions as you gaze across your starving turf.  So why should you fertilize your lawn? 

There is a better reason to fertilize than “green grass envy.” Fertilizing is an important regular lawn maintenance practice, just as vitamins and regular exercise are important for your own physical well-being. Your lawn is a living, breathing wonder and fertilizing enhances the color of the grass, and strengthens it against disease, weeds, parasites and stress.  If you take your lawn for granted and neglect it, the weeds and brown spots are sure to appear.

There is some science to the process of fertilizing your lawn, but it’s not as complicated as you might think, and Greenview products and services make it easy and carefree for you.  First, remember that grass is not just grass. There are different kinds of grasses growing in lawns and each type may have its own requirements. One of the most important factors in selecting the type of turf grass is the climate in which you live. If you live in the southern U.S., your lawn may consist of “warm-season” grass like Bermudagrass, Buffalograss, Zoysiagrass, Centipedegrass, Bahiagrass or St. Augustinegrass, to name a few.  In the North and in Canada, your lawn may be a “cool-season” grass like Bentgrasses, Bluegrasses, Fescues and Ryegrasses.  And between these extremes and in the Eastern U.S., we have “transition zones,” toughest for growing grass because it’s too hot for some, too cold for others.  So often your grass in these areas will be a mixture, building on the strengths of each grass type.

So it’s good to know what grass grows best in your climate and under your outdoor conditions. Once you know what kind of grass you have, next question is when to fertilize? The answer: during your growing seasons.  In most areas of the country, in spring, your grass is re-born, growing new roots and shoots hungry for nutrition.  A good rule of thumb is to fertilize after the first three mowings.  We recommend Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Weed & Feed with Crabgrass Preventer and applying it after the forsythia has bloomed but before the dandelions go to the "puff ball" stage. The combination of weed control ingredients kill over 200 broadleaf weeds and prevent crabgrass. And in fall, your lawn reaches down deep to survive the winter, developing a strong root system. Greenview recommends applying Greenview Fairway Formula Fall Fertilizer in early September followed by an application of Greenview Fairway Formula Late Fall Fertilizer (Winterizer) around the time you put the lawn mower away, usually mid to late November. 

Depending on your area of the country, your growing seasons will vary.  So to be sure you are fertilizing just enough, but not too much, by matching the grass you have (warm weather, cool weather or mixture) with your growing seasons to customize your fertilizing schedule.

For your cool season grasses, give them one to two light feedings in the early fall to promote root growth but not heavy enough to promote top growing.  Mid-spring feeding will help promote top growth and thicker foliage development.  But don't fertilize too heavily in the summer or late spring and stay away from those fast acting fertilizers that can "overdose" your lawn.

Your warm season grasses grow the most in late spring to early summer.  This is the time that they need the additional nutrients supplied by our Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer 26-4-12.

In the south, where you have a longer growing season, you can fertilize on a regular basis whenever lawns stay green all year.

Here's a summary of the USDA Zone Map.  There are many other types of zone maps gardeners use, but this is the most common Department of Agriculture map to determine your zone.

Zone	Location
Zone 1	Fairbanks, Alaska Resolute, Northwest Territories (Canada)
Zone 2	Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, Flin Flon, Manitoba (Canada);                              Unalakleet, Alaska, Pinecreek, Minnesota
Zone 3	International Falls, Minnesota St. Michael, Alaska; Tomahawk, Wisconsin,Sidney, Montana
Zone 4	Minneapolis/St.Paul, Minnesota Lewistown, Montana; Northwood, Iowa, Nebraska
Zone 5	Des Moines, Iowa, Illinois, Columbia, Missouri Mansfield, Pennsylvania
Zone 6	St. Louis, Missouri, Lebanon, Pennsylvania; McMinnville,                      Tennessee, Coatesville, Pennsylvania
Zone 7	Oklahoma City, Oklahoma,Collingswood, New Jersey;                                     Little Rock, Arkansas, Griffin, Georgia
Zone 8	Tifton, Georgia,Dallas, Texas; Gainesville, Florida Austin, Texas
Zone 9	St. Augustine, Florida, Houston, Texas; Fort Pierce,                                    Florida, Brownsville, Texas
Zone 10	Naples, Florida, Barstow, California; Miami, Florida Coral Gables, Florida
Zone 11	Honolulu, Hawaii, Mazatlan, Mexico

The rest is in the fertilizer product you choose and the company that stands behind it. The best thing about our Greenview product is that one application provides the right amount of nitrogen for the entire spring and summer season and our 70% slow release nitrogen fertilizes up to 12 weeks! Slow release nitrogen feeds your lawn controlled, steady nutrition over a longer period of time.  Then your neighbor gets to view your carpet of thicker, greener grass on a regular basis.

So on which side of the fence do you want to be this spring?

Photos courtesy of the Purdue University website.  Chart courtesy of the USDA website.

Submitted by J. Weinmann

To De-Thatch or Aerate, that is the question!

Early in the spring, after a light raking, what was once a lush lawn may appear worn and matted.  You might blame it on bugs.  Or you may think, “..it’s a disease,” or “..I didn’t water it enough.” You may say to yourself with regret, “I should have fertilized with Greenview Weed & Feed products last fall.”

First of all, don’t worry about feeding and fertilizing.  You still have plenty of time to use our Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer 26-4-12. Our home delivery service and annual lawn plan will ensure you receive your fertilizer and weed control products on time.  However, let’s not jump to conclusions yet.  This early, a knee-jerk reaction to your damaged lawn might cause you to overlook the real culprits: thatch and soil compaction.

What is thatch?  Thatch consists of pieces of stems, roots, and debris that are slow to decay because they have high cellulose content.  They build up in a layer between the grass blades and the soil surface. Water can’t penetrate the soil surface and reach the roots.  So you see patches of dead grass or thin areas where you dreamed of a thick green carpet.   Moderate thatch is not necessarily a bad thing because it can make turf more tolerant to foot traffic, but too much thatch means trouble.

What is soil compaction? When the top 4 inches of the soil become compressed, air, water and nutrients can’t move around to the grass roots. As a result, your grass becomes stressed, and without help, (see our weed control products), stressed grass can lose the battle against weeds. Soil is usually compacted in high traffic areas, like children’s playgrounds and walkways, but it can also be caused by excessive moisture and it can occur in soils with high levels of sodium ions left behind by irrigation.  Most important to your lawn, soil compaction can cause—you guessed it—excessive thatching! Aeration is required to loosen the soil and let the air and nutrients in.

So what’s a homeowner to do?  De-thatch or aerate?

Where thatch is widespread, to prevent a reoccurrence of the problem, de-thatching isn’t enough.   You must also aerate the soil.  For proper and thorough lawn maintenance, it’s a matter of….how low do you go?  De-thatching is like scratching the surface of the problem.  You can remove the thatch, but if soil compaction is the cause, then you must go deeper to solve the problem.  For smaller areas, you may be able to use a spading fork or sod-coring tool, or those cool-looking aerator sandals, but for larger lawns, you probably want to rent a vertical mower, core aerifier, or power rake.

Need a quick way to figure out if your soil is compacted?  Poke it. A sharp blunt object like a screwdriver will do.  If it sinks in easily wherever you poke, great!  Your soil is probably well aerated—a de-thatching may be all that’s needed prior to treating your lawn with the right fertilizer at the right time.  But, if you can’t penetrate the soil, compaction may be in action!  

Aeration removes cores of soil, leaving holes in the lawn. So be prepared…it’s not pretty at first, but your lawn will thank you later with a lush, rich, thick, more vibrant sea of green turf that you can be proud of once again!

Submitted by J. Weinmann

Want to look out your window this spring and see green?

Yes, that’s your lawn out there.  It’s a living thing.  And like any living thing, to thrive it needs food, water, and protection from disease and parasites. We at Greenview speak loudly on behalf of the good old American lawn. In fact we care so much that we use the same technology used on championship golf courses—promoting slow and steady growth of those delicate grass roots. 

But we also know how hectic life can be for you homeowners.  So that’s why we say: keep it simple. A little raking, some aerating and nitrogen will bring back the green in your yard.  Nitrogen is the key nutrient in turf fertilizer. Whether you have Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, or a tall fescue lawn, you may need 3 to 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn per year to get the results you’ve dreamed of. Most brands of fertilizer call for several applications per season.  We say: do it once, and do it right.  One step is all you need.  If you use our Greenview Fairway Formula Spring Fertilizer Weed and Feed with Crabgrass Preventer, you get the ideal combo of nutrients, like Phosphorous (P) and potassium (potash, K), and weed prevention.  That’s total weed obliteration—including what the experts call “pre-emergence” (for crabgrass) and post-emergence (for broadleaf weeds).

TIP: You homeowners who consistently return grass clippings during mowing will see the best results. No need to worry about when to fertilize.  If you are on our Annual Lawn Plan, we monitor the weather for you.  When your Greenview bags arrive it's time!

Submitted by J. Weinmann

Quick Lawn Prep for Winter

To prepare your lawn for winter, make sure to rake up all the leaves no later than 2 weeks after they have fallen.  The leaves will prevent sunlight from reaching the grass, which causes stress, suffocation, and disease. If you don’t have an excessive amount of leaves, you may choose to chop the leaves up with a mulching mower.  These little leaf pieces will decompose quickly and add some nutrients to the grass.  Once you have cleared your lawn of any debris, including sticks and stones, and are sure your lawn is finished growing, give it a final cut.  Also sharpen and clean your mower blades before packing up for winter.

Fall Seeding Steps

When seeding during the fall make sure you leave enough time for the grass seed to fully germinate before the freezing temperatures arrive.

1.  To begin remove sticks, stones, leaves and other debris and loosen up the top 2-3 inches of soil.  Leave the loosened soil in small clumps and apply a starter fertilizer.

2.  When seeding large areas use a spreader or a mechanical seeder, smaller areas can be seeded evenly by hand.  Check out Greenview Fairway Formula Grass Seed.

3.  Cover the seedbed with about a 1/4 inch of soil.  Then apply a seed accelerator such as Greenview Grass Seed Accelerator over the soil to help retain moisture.  The pellets in the Greenview Grass Seed Accelerator have a patented moisture cell technology which allows the pellets to expand to hold water.  When the soil in the seedbed begins to dry, the pellets release the water to keep seedlings moist.

4.  Watering the new seedlings is very important for germination.  Water lightly and frequently at least once a day.  Make sure you keep the roots of the new grass moist.

Zero Phosphate Fertilizers from Greenview

Do you want a healthy and beautiful green lawn this fall? With Greenview's Zero Phosphate Fall Fertilizer you will get the lawn you always wanted while being "Eco-Friendly" to the environment.

Phosphorous, which young grass needs for root development is usually not needed by mature or well established lawns.  Before choosing a fertilizer it is a good idea to perform a soil test to determine if your lawn needs additional phosphorous. A recent university study concluded that most home lawns have adequate amounts of phosphorous which is delivered naturally from the break down of leaves and plants.

So what are the benefits of using Greenview's Zero Phosphate Fertilizers with slow release nitrogen?  Greenview fertilizers contain a patented slow release technology and are environmentally friendly because they release nutrients slowly over a period of weeks, allowing the grass plant to take up the nutrients. 

Remember, during the fall most home lawns do not need additional phosphorous supplements, so now is the perfect time to use Greenview's Zero Phosphate Fall Fertilizer!

The Lebanon Seaboard Corporation is a proud member of The Chesapeake Bay Program.  Read how they are supporting this important environmental stewardship initiative.

What about the grass clippings?

If you mow regularly and don't have large piles of grass clippings, it is best to leave them on the lawn.  The clippings return nutrients and organic matter to the soil as they break down.  A big misconception about leaving the lawn clippings in the yard is that they attribute to thatch.  Thatch is a layer of decaying plant matter that accumulates at the surface of the soil, but grass clippings (if not left on the lawn in excess) break down quickly and are healthy for your lawn.

Large piles of grass clippings are not healthy because they can clump together and mat down the grass blocking sunlight which will cause yellow spots and increase the chance of disease.

Lawn Mowing Recommendations

Following a few important lawn mowing procedures can make a huge difference in the look and health of your yard, so before you start up that mower read over these recommendations.

During the fastest growing periods in the spring and fall it is a good idea to mow often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the blade at a time.  Mowing about twice a week is a good schedule to follow while the grass is growing quickly.  If you wait too long in between cuts and you take off too much this causes major shock and damage to the grass.  Cutting away too much grass at a time causes dried out soil, drought effects, weeds growing faster and stronger without the shade of the grass plant, dehydration, and reduced chlorophyll which is used to produce energy for the roots.  All of these strains on the plant require more energy to recover from the shock.

During the hot summer months raise your mower and cut the grass at a higher height to help the plant retain more water and to shade the soil from becoming too dry.  The grass does not grow as quickly and strongly so frequent mowing is not necessary but the same 1/3 rule applies.

Watering Quick Tips

Watering is extremely important for maintaining a healthy lawn.  Watering helps cool the grass plant, create food, help seeds germinate, and keeps your lawn looking green and healthy.  Prolonged periods without watering the grass do not allow it to cool off which causes it to become more susceptible to diseases, browning, and dormancy during the summer months.  The conditions in which grass plants lose the most water are during humidity, high temperatures, high light intensity, and strong winds.

To prevent browning, dormancy, and to keep your lawn healthy and beautiful water deeply but infrequently.  This encourages deep root systems for strong and healthy grass.  Shallow watering can cause the grass to root closer to the surface in the thatch and make it weak.

Timing for watering is best in the early morning hours where the temperature is low to prevent evaporation and winds are light.

Lawn Thatch How-To

What is lawn thatch?

Thatch is a dense layer of decaying plant matter that accumulates at the surface of the soil.  A small layer of thatch is acceptable because it helps retain moisture and prevent soil compaction.  But when thatch becomes too thick it prevents fertilizer and water from reaching the roots of the grass making them weak.  This build-up of decomposing matter causes your lawn to be more prone to diseases, weeds, thinning, and less tolerant to harsh weather conditions.

How do I check for lawn thatch?

Checking your lawn for thatch is easy.  Cut out a section of your lawn and measure the thatch build-up near the top.  The recommended amount of thatch, which is healthy for your grass, is between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.

How do I prevent thatch?

Do not apply too much quick release nitrogen fertilizer and do not water your lawn lightly and frequently.  Both of these lawn care practices allow your lawn to grow excessively fast and causes more thatch build-up.  Watering your grass lightly and frequently causes the grass to root near the surface in the thatch.  If you water deeply but infrequently this allows the grass roots to grow deeper into the soil allowing a healthier and stronger root system for your lawn.  Using Greenview Fairway Formula Fertilizers can also help you prevent lawn thatch!

Also a common myth to thatch build-up is from grass clippings left on the lawn after mowing.  This, however, is totally untrue.  These clippings add nutrients to the soil and decompose quickly, so you wont have to go the extra mile to bag them up.

How do I de-thatch my lawn?

The time to de-thatch is before the grass's prime growing season, usually during spring or in early fall.  Manually de-thatching your lawn is the process of raking through the lawn, which can be rather time consuming, but it is less stressing on your lawn than using a power de-thatcher.  Manual de-thatching is suggested for small to medium size lawns with about an inch of thatch.  For larger lawns or if you have a greater amount of thatch, you can rent a power de-thatcher of hire someone to do it for you.  This process may cause your lawn to look rather messy, but it will recover in no time with the growing season right ahead.  Lastly, always make sure that you rake up all debris and thatch when you are finished.

Summer Rose Care

To gather some research on summer rose care my co-worker Jill and I took a trip over to the beautiful Hershey Gardens in Hershey, PA.

The Hershey Gardens has been operating since 1936 and have 7,500 roses blooming throughout the summer including 275 varieties within this breath-taking 23-acre garden.  On our researching adventure through the Hershey Gardens, we were given some expert advice on summer rose care from Jamie Schiffer, the grounds manager and manager of the gardening and maintenance staff.  Jamie showed us around the gardens and gave us the secrets to maintaining a beautiful rose garden all summer long.

Fertilizing

After the first fertilization in the spring, apply a granular slow-release rose fertilizer to your rose plants between June and July.  Make sure you water-in the fertilizer a day after application.  Try Woodace Flowering Plant Fertilizer for your roses!

Disease, Fungus, and Insect Protection

To protect roses from disease, fungus, and insects, Jamie said that the grounds and maintenance crew at the gardens spray the rose plants about once a week with fungicide and insecticides.  This spraying helps reduce black spot, diseases, and insect damage.  Many of the insect damage done to roses are from spider mites and Japanese beetles (these beetles also lay eggs in your lawn which grow into grubs).

Watering

Roses do not require heavy and constant watering but do not allow the soil to become dry for an extensive period of time.  Water your roses after two weeks of a dry spell without any rain.  Also water at the roots, wetting the leaves and blooms causes the plant to become more susceptible to fungus, disease, and insects.

Dead-Heading

Dead-heading is the process of cutting back wilted or spent blooms.  Jamie highly encouraged dead-heading the rose plants about once a week.  He also said that this process helps the rose plant to grow stronger and produce more blooms.  His advice for dead-heading the roses is to cut back the rose to the 5th leaf at the stem.

Please feel free to leave a comment on any of your own personal tips and tricks for summer rose care!

Summer Lawn Care for Cool Season Grass

Mowing

Cool season grasses should be mowed at a higher height during the summer and no shorter than three inches.  This helps the grass to decrease heat and fight drought.  The longer blades also help to shade the soil to preserve moisture and keep temperatures cooler.

Always keep your lawn mower blades sharp throughout the summer.  A dull blade can tear the grass tip which increases moisture loss and can result in browning.

• Watering

With cool season grasses you have the choice of maintaining the lawn so it stays green throughout the summer or leave it to become dormant.  To keep your lawn green all summer long, water deeply but infrequently.  This helps to develop deep root systems which creates better tolerance to harsh weather conditions.  If you decide to allow the lawn to turn brown and go dormant, a healthy lawn can survive for about four to six weeks without watering or rain.  Your lawn will then green-up again after adequate watering.

The best time to water your lawn is in the early morning , the light winds and cool temperatures help to prevent any water loss to evaporation or strong winds.

*Also keep your lawn looking lush and green during the summer with Perk Lawn Revitalizer!

• Grub Control

If you have noticed brown spots on your lawn an easy test to check for grubs is to see if those brown spots can be easily pulled away from the ground.  These grubs eat away at the roots of the grass killing the turf.  Luckily, Greenview offers grub control products to kill these root-eating critters.

Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (Mach 2)

Grub Control (Dylox)

• Types of Cool Season Grass

Bentgrass

Kentucky Bluegrass

Fescue (Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, Sheeps Fescue, Hard Fescue, and Tall Fescue* )

Ryegrass (Perennial and Annual)

• States with Cool Season Grasses

Delaware, Connecticut, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Maryland, Maine, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, North Carolina, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Tennessee, Virginia, Vermont, Washington, Wisconsin, West Virginia.

Grub Prevention

Pests come in many forms. One of them is the White Grub. It can affect all types of grass and turf.  Greenview helps manage this pest.

These grubs are plump, C-shaped insects. They are light in color with dark areas near the rear. They have a distinct brown head. The adults are beetles commonly referred to as May-beetles, June-beetles, and Japanese beetles.  Adult female beetles lay their eggs in the soil.

The grubs hatch and spend most of their life beneath the soil feeding on roots.  Most have rather long life cycles with the grub stage lasting from several months to two to three years.  In heavy infestations; roots are pruned off to the extent that the turf can be rolled back like a carpet, resulting in brown spots of dead turf.  At this point, you will need to kill the the grubs and then reseed the damaged areas.

Because white grubs are soil inhabiting insects, the best solution for control is to apply a granular form insecticide that is watered into the soil.  Greenview offers two products for controlling grubs:

• Greenview Grub Preventer and Killer (with Mach 2) is applied in mid summer and provides season long control of grubs.
• Greenview Grub Control (with Dylox) is applied in late summer and kills grubs within 48 hours.

The Best Time to Apply Fertilizers

Wondering about the best time to apply fertilizer? Here are some quick tips from the Greenview Fertilizer website to make it easy for you.

• In the spring, the best time to apply fertilizer is after 3 mowings. Apply .5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet to support growth and to build-up reserves for summer.
• Cool season grasses go dormant in the summer and fertilizing at this time is not recommended.  If you have a warm season grass, your lawn requires frequent fertilization as it grows all summer and needs the added nutrients to maintain health and color.
• Another important time to fertilize is in the fall to help the grass develop a strong root system. Apply 1.5 to 2.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet (Use the higher amount if your lawn is Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, soil is sandy, or grass clippings are not returned to the lawn.)
• Check out the Greenview Annual Lawn Plan where lawn care experts provide recommendations for your lawn program.  They even tell you when and how to apply each fertilizer and weed control treatment - so you get the best results.  The Greenview Annual Lawn Plan makes it easy - all you do is push the spreader!

Greenview - Growing Lawns for 60 Years!